Hello,
We are having trouble with cicada killers. I know they are harmless but they have taken over our vegetable garden. They burrow under the plants and kill them. I read on your site to use cypermethrin. I was wondering if that is safe to use in the garden. I enjoy watching them take down cicadas, drag them up a tree and then fly off to their holes with them… they are amazing creatures but I need to eat too.
Any info regarding freeing our garden of them would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
J.W.
The CYPERMETHRIN listed in our CICADA KILLER CONTROL would not be the best option for this application need. Though I don't think the concentrate would be absorbed by the plant enough to pose a hazard, in general this active is not for use on plants that produce fruit or vegetables. Due to the close proximity of the treatment, I suggest opting for something else. Alternatively there are some organic or less toxic products we have which will work fine and still be safe to use around and even on the plants if needed.
The most direct approach would to wait till dark and then dust their open holes with CONCERN DE DUST. Apply it with a HAND DUSTER and you'll get instant control of any wasps in the nest when you dust. In theory you should be able to treat all the nests you have heavily enough to shut them down within minutes of the treatment.
Alternatively you could opt to spray some MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER directly down their nests. If done in the evening when you know they'll be back for the night, the treatment will kill them all on contact as it's poured or sprayed down their nest. In general, if you're thorough enough the first time you treat and carefully get each burrow, you can knock them all out with one application. But if you have 5 or more nests, it will probably take a couple of treatments since they can sometimes hide well or some peripheral nests can be missed.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page519.html
Cicada Killer Control Article: http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/cicadakillers.html
Concern DE Dust: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/concern-diatomaceous-earth
Hand Duster: http://www.gotosprayer.com/dusters/hand-dusters/crusader-hand-duster
Multi Purpose Insect Killer: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz
Filed under garden safe spray by 
We are looking at Neem. Once we mix up a gallon, how long will it remain good in the mixed solution?
This is a great question and one we get quite often. To best understand the answer it's important to understand the difference between "ready to use" products versus concentrates like we sell.
For starters, ready-to-use sprays don't need to be mixed; they usually come in a spray jug or bottle and can be used immediately as is. Concentrates will require mixing. In most cases water will be the "carrier" but many concentrates can be mixed with deodorized oil. Ready-to-use sprays are very dilute and to keep them in this form they require a lot of stabilizers. These additives insure the active ingredients don't break down so that over time the spray will remain intact as long as the product is stored at room temperature and out of direct sunlight. Concentrates cannot be used this way. Once mixed, they'll be vulnerable to rapid depreciation in their sprayable form. In other words, where sprayed they can last weeks or even months because this is how they were designed to be used. But these areas will quickly dry and assuming they're protected, the active ingredient can persist. In general, it won't do nearly as well if stored in water because the active isn't meant to be kept this way. But this is by design and not a shortcoming. Let me further explain.
One of the big "drawbacks" of any ready-to-use spray is that it has all kinds of toxic additives. Referred to as "solvents, stabilizers or suspension agents", in many cases these additives are more hazardous compared to the active ingredient! Additionally these very same additives can many times smell strong, burn plants or stain surfaces where sprayed and in general cause a lot more problems then they're worth. On the other hand concentrates mixed with water will be as close to pure as possible and many times won't have any odor or chance of staining. This would be one of their advantages. Additionally, it's always nice knowing every time you need to spray you can have a "fresh" batch of product made for the job at hand. No doubt storing a ready-to-use spray over time will have a negative impact on just how much active ingredient is actually in the spray the next time you go to use it.
Another problem with the ready-to-spray formulations is that the stabilizers don't actually do their job that well.. Many times they'll actually break the active down when kept in storage and this can be to the point where the active is barely detectable or useful anymore. Unfortunately there is no practical way to guage or test how much active might be left in any spray so in the end, you can very well buy a product that is already in it's "useless" range. To avoid this problem, the use of concentrates is the way to go and the only products we sell.
Of course, the big drawback of the concentrates we sell is that you need to mix them up. This does require a little effort and some precise measurement to make the finished spray just right, but fortunately the advent of small easy to pour "tip'n measure" containers are in use. They've made it easy to get exact measurements out of the container and into your spray tank. But another short coming is that the finished spray mixed won't last long in the spray tank. In general, it might be good for 1-2 days but don't store it any longer. Some concentrates might coagulate which can clog a sprayer. Others will simply loose their strength and won't work when applied. But again, they don't have all those "extra" ingredients the ready-to-use have so this is to be expected and not something we try to hide. In fact, it's something we embrace. Here's why.
If you have a vegetable garden you want to spray but are unsure of how much to mix, don't make an entire gallon to start. Instead, mix up just 1/2 gallon. After treating the given area a time or two you should know exactly how much you'll need and from then on, make only that exact amount. It might turn out to be just 1/2 or maybe 3/4's of a gallon. Regardless, any of the sprayers and concentrates we carry including the NEEM can be mixed to a specific amount of finished product. And it's quite common for people to only mix as little as a quart at a time for small applications so this is perfectly normal to do. In the end, using up what you mix the same day is the best way to go and definitely what we recommend.
Hopefully this answers your question and if you need some help determining how much concentrate you'll need to add to get the finished amount needed for your target site, give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290 and one of our reps will be able to assist.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Neem Garden Spray Concentrate: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/garden-defense-neem-concentrate
Filed under Blog by
I have numerous cicadas in all trees. Is this the only known repellant available?
Please respond.
Thank you.
We have two insect repellents that work well on most any insects including cicada's. These products won't kill anything; they're only meant to keep annoying and invasive pests away. Used mostly for mosquitoes, gnats, wasps and other pests that commonly invade homes, these same products can be used to chase away cicada's.
The first one is the MOSQUITO REPELLENT. It comes in a ready-to-spray jug which means all you need to do is hook it up to your garden hose and you're ready to use it. The power of the water pressure for your home is what will propel it out and most homes supply a strong enough water flow so the spray can reach quite high. Be sure to get some material on as much of the tree as possible. And focus your attention to the trees they seem to like. Repeat when they return; most people will have to treat 2-3 times per season depending on the cycle for any particular year. And most applications will last 1-3 weeks.
The second option is a concentrate. NBS INSECT REPELLENT is mostly used for pests like wasps, carpenter bees and other invasive insects on the home. The most popular way to use it is to add some to your paint or stain when finishing the exterior of the home or any other structure you want to keep pest free. It can also be mixed with water and sprayed out over these same areas. It's perfectly safe for plants and when used on trees and shrubs and bushes where cicada's like to rest, it will effectively repel them for 2-4 weeks. Again, retreat as needed and mix it up at the rate of 3 oz per gallon. Most people will use it in a HOSE END SPRAYER so they're able to reach quite high where cicada's like to roost.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Mosquito Repellent: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/mosquito-flea-gnat-tick-repellent
Insect Repellent: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray
Hose End Sprayer: http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/hose-end-sprayers/gilmour-six-gallon-hose-end-385
Filed under nontoxic repellents by
I have carpenter bees excavating a nest on top of a large stump in my property, right by the deck. I want a non-toxic repellent for this, but don't really want to harm the bees or my dog. Do I purchase liquid NBS and pour it down the hole?
If you read the write up on the NBS INSECT REPELLENT, you'll learn it won't kill anything so it's a good option for deterring this unwanted behavior. However, if the bees have already begun laying eggs, they might be reluctant to move away. Think of it this way.
If you were raising some kids and living in a home which was quite comfortable for you and your family, you wouldn't simply move away if you came home one day and noticed something foul smelling on the siding of the house. And if your kids were inside the home, you'd no doubt make sure they were safe and do whatever you could to make the smell go away so you could continue living there. But you wouldn't readily pick up and leave without trying to make it work first.
The same is true for any bees with an established nest. If you were to spray or pour the NBS down and on the wood where the drilling is happening, no doubt the bees will smell it. But if she's got young or eggs inside the nest, she probably won't just pack up and move. In fact she'll most likely try to wait it out hoping the smell will wane enough to be tolerable. Now there is a chance she will give up easily if the nest is new and not important but it's a 50-50 chance. NBS was really invented to stop new bee activity and not to drive away bees which were already established and nesting with young and it's important to understand this trait of the product.
In summary, there is a good chance the treatment will chase away the bees doing the damage. But if the nest is established with young or eggs, you'll have to treat it with the DRIONE DUST as explained in our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE to get rid of them once and for all.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
NBS Repellent: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray
Drione Dust: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html
Carpenter Bee Article: http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control
Filed under carpenter bees by
I have a bee hive in my back yard which contains Italian honeybees. Is there a mosquito eradication product that will not harm my bees? Perhaps a fogger product?
As explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, mosquitoes commonly rest on plants and other vegetation. Though they don't commonly land on flowering plants, there is no practical way to treat everything but the parts of a plant where your honeybees will land (generally that would be the flower). And though removing your bee hives from the treatment area would work, I don't expect this to be a practical solution either. Fogs, sprays and dusts will all leave a residual over the entire plant so in the end, I'm afraid the only truly safe method of keeping the mosquitoes in check will be to use repellents. Fortuanately we have 2-3 that work quite well.
One of the best is the MOSQUITO REPELLENT RTS. It's a liquid concentrate that can be sprayed over your vegetation and basically anywhere you're seeing mosquitoes. Organic and safe for the environment, the beauty of this material is that it won't kill anything. Treatments can last a few weeks and it works on other pests like fleas, ticks and gnats keeping them all off the treated area.
Alternatively you may prefer to use a dry granular material like MOSQUITO SCAT. This product only needs to be sprinkled out over the turf and yard in areas you want to keep mosquito free. Treatments won't last as long as the spray but again, it's safe enough to be used without danger to other beneficial insects yet strong enough to keep away the undesirables.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Mosquito Control: http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control
Mosquito Liquid Repellent: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/mosquito-flea-gnat-tick-repellent
Mosquito Granule Repellent: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page681.html
Filed under safe mosquito solution by
Bugs are eating my veggies before I can get to them. Is there something I can safely spray them with, that isn't toxic to us when we eat them? They are eating not only the leaves, but also the veggies themselves. Thank you so much.
There are several organic options that are made for garden plants. The two most common include the GARDEN DEFENSE WITH NEEM and the 3 IN ONE CONCENTRATE. Both of these have a short one day to harvest wait period which means you can spray either right up to the day before you intend on picking your fruit or vegetable since their residual is so safe and short lived.
As for the difference between the two; the Neem is highly active on most insects and tends to repel them for up to a week. It's really just for insect control where as the 3 in 1 has both a Miticide and a Fungicide included so it covers more problems common to the garden. Use it if you find either to be an issue during the garden growing season.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Neem Concentrate: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/garden-defense-neem-concentrate
3 in 1 Concentrate: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/3-in-1-fim-32-oz
Filed under garden safe spray by
I am in Houston TX and am having trouble with leaf footed bug on tomatos (in particular). I have tried catch and kill by hand and while have got many aver the past two weeks, I feel I am loosing the war. I am also trying to keep the garden organic and want a pesticide that can be applied near harvest time. I also am having trouble with local bee populations for pollination so I do not want to kill bees.
Ideas?
There are many types of beetles and bugs which can wreak havoc in the garden. Some of these are quite persistent. The leaf footed bug is both big and intimidating and there are many species active around the United States. In most cases you'll only see one or two and they won't amass in any significant numbers. But when they do, if they're feeding on any one plant they can have an impact. The good news is you have plenty of options when it comes to controlling local populations.
Based on the fact you stated you're trying to keep an organic garden, I'll limit my suggesting to either the 3 IN 1 SPRAY or the MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER. Both are organic and can be used right up the last day of harvest so they are very safe. But we've found both to be quite active on tough hard shelled insects like the leaf footed bug. Treat every 2-4 weeks once the problem is resolved and you won't see many if any come back. We have seen these two products have a repellency action so they will do a good job of warning bees so they'll stay clear of treated plants too.
Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:
3 In 1 Spray: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/3-in-1-fim-32-oz
Multipurpose Insect Killer: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz
Filed under leaffooted bug by
I HAVE LAKE FRONT HOUSE, SPIDERS ARE ALWAYS A PROBLEM … THE QUESTION I HAVE IS HOW LONG DOES THE ECO EXEMPT CONCENTRATES LAST IF I SPRAY MY HOUSE ALL AROUND IN THE LATE SPRING THANKS B.H.
We've had people report residuals from two weeks to two months. It's really hard to say. After being in the business for over 30 years, I've learned residuals can vary from house to house based on what's going on locally, and most importantly, what's happening on the property being treated. In the end, I think it's mostly dependent on the local moisture levels and there really is no way to tell for sure other than to try.
For example, here at my house, the length of residual has varied by almost the exact difference cited above. When I first moved to where I now reside, I found my treatments lasted about 2 weeks. This was true for most all the pests found on my property including spiders. I live on a river with lots of lush vegetation, shade and moisture so no doubt I knew it could be tough to get products to last when I decided to move here. But being in the business (and the fact that I can get a good price on the products I sell), I was undaunted. For the first few years I found I was treating about every 10-14 days "in season". But then we started to have a major drought a few years ago and by the second year of the drought, I noticed my treatments could go much longer and still be effective. Interestingly my lot wasn't that much different from before. In other words, it was still lush and green and shady. I'm thinking the plants were getting their water from the river bed. But I'm pretty sure the lack of rainfall combined with the lower humidity allowed the spray I applied to last a lot longer and in the end I was able to go just about 2 months before needing to retreat.
Now will that be what you can expect to happen if you were to apply ECO IC around your house? Probably. There is no doubt the length of residual for any product is dependent on factors like the rain, sun and general air moisture. But I would be amiss not to mention the impact a complete spider treating program would provide. In other words, if you were to treat the yard with the ECO GRANULES and spray the outside with the ECO IC CONCENTRATE, no doubt you'd get much better results compared to just spraying. And for obvious reasons, if you have spiders inside the home, treating with some ECO KO AEROSOL inside would be a big help opposed to just relying on the outside spray to keep them out.
So in summary, there is no doubt a lot of factors that can all have an impact on just how long any one concentrate or treatment might last. In the end you will undoubtedly find it to vary from year to year and even from season to season. But if you stay the course and treat the property for several years, over time you'll learn just what to expect given the current weather pattern during any one year. Personally I've got my lot down to a science. I'm able to gauge within a day when certain pests like mosquitoes, spiders and ants will "reappear" and it's mostly dependent on the local moisture levels. No doubt it has fluctuated and I suspect the same would be true for you as well.
Here are direct links for the products mentioned above:
ECO IC: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate
ECO Granules: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/eco-exempt-granules
ECO KO Aerosol: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/eco-exempt-ko-contact-aerosol-14-oz
Filed under spider spray by
I am looking for a totally non toxic product to use in my home on a every few month basis. We live in the woods, so we see spiders, roaches, ants etc. Thank you.
We have a few options and I expect one will serve your needs adequately. Here are some suggestions.
The first would be the "strongest" option. It's federally exempt due to the fact that it uses food grade actives and is very safe for use around people and animals. ECO IC is a concentrate that can be used inside and outside the home and will no doubt control all the pests you're likely to encounter. It's not a pesticide but it does act like one in that it kills target insects and supplies a lengthy residual or residue that will remain active for some time.
The second option would be the BUG PATROL RTS. This is an organic spray that can't be used inside but instead is designed for use around the home. It's highly effective on tough to kill bugs like roaches and ants. By spraying once a quarter (every three months), you'd knock down the local insect population and in theory effectively reduce the odds of any coming inside. This approach is actually much more effective compared to waiting till you see them inside and then spraying where everyone lives. Getting bugs outside the home, before they get inside, is a better approach and this product is one of the best organic options when using this method.
The third option would be the HOUSE PLANT INSECT KILLER. Labeled for use inside the home, on house plants and pretty much anywhere, it's ready to spray (comes in a can) and is very handy to have for spot treating. Use as needed or every 2 months. It won't be the most cost effective material to use if you're house is large but it might have a place in your overall program since it can be used as much as needed, is organic and can be applied on any vegetable plant inside or out in the yard around the home.
Lastly, you could opt for a total non pesticide approach with the pure INSECT REPELLENT. This product is to be used outside only and is mostly used as a paint or stain additive. When used in this fashion, it can repel pests for 1-2 years including all the ones you listed above. When used as a spray, results won't be as long but you should still get 2-3 months of residual. This would be the most "green" option as it's not a pesticide and won't kill anything. Given the location of the home, I'm not sure this will prove effective enough for your needs but it might.
In summary, all of these options are included on this site and considered non toxic when compared to traditional pesticides. Hopefully one of these options will fulfill your requirement. Here are links to the products mentioned above:
ECO IC: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate
Bug Patrol: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/bug-patrol-rts
House Plant Killer: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/houseplant-insect-killer-10-oz
Insect Repellent: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray
Filed under house spray by
May Eco Exempt IC be used to control clover mites and prevent them from entering a structure?
If it may, what is the recommended dilution and application rate for an active infestation?
Does EEIC provide elimination, or only suppression within the treated area?
Thanks, W.K.
If you read our article on CLOVER MITE CONTROL, you'll learn they can be quite persistent and stubborn once they get well established. Depending on the source of your problem it's most likely one of the ECO products will be able to effectively control and eliminate the problem. The key is getting it where it needs to be and this will largely depend on the form used. Since it's important to treat the turf and the building siding, I don't think the ECO IC alone will do the job.
But if you first treat the turf with the ECO GRANULES followed by extensive treatments with the ECO EXEMPT AEROSOL to all the cracks and crevices, I'm sure you'll knock them down if you successfully treat their nests. Again, the key here is getting the product where it needs to be. The one limitation of the liquid ECO Exempt is that it won't penetrate all the cracks and crevices where clover mites are no doubt nesting. For that the aerosol version will be better suited.
And the ECO Granules will do a better job of lasting long so in the turf surrounding the home, a good application of it will really impact and knock down the local population as it tends to linger much longer. Liquid spraying will have it's value and definitely needs to be done to all the siding and "above turf" site where you see activity. Especially now that the clover mites like to come out in the open. But this isn't where they're nesting so in the end, more coverage will be needed. Combine the ECO IC with the granules and aerosol and you'll get the results you're wanting.
Lastly, the rate of mixing the concentrate will be 8 oz of ECO IC per gallon of water which can then be applied over 500 sq/ft. Most homes will require 10 lbs of granules to be applied monthly around the house perimeter followed by 2 gallons of spray over the top, the siding/foundation of the house and other objects like porches, fences etc. where activity is observed. All cracks and crevices on the home need to be treated with the Aerosol which will use 1/2-1 can per treatment. If done monthly you should be able to fully control the clover mite infestation in 6-12 months.
Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:
Clover Mite Control: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page478.html
ECO IC Gallon: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate
ECO Granules: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/eco-exempt-granules
ECO Exempt Aerosol: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/eco-exempt-ko-contact-aerosol-14-oz
jonathan
Filed under mite control by
Hi,
We have a small presence of springtails in our bathroom and would like the most 'green' friendly product that you can recommend.
Thanks J.D.
Springtails can become quite a problem once they start entering the home. As explained in our SPRINGTAIL CONTROL ARTICLE, they seem to be a real problem up under slab homes and when they are, common entry points to the home will be under sinks and tubs. Do you have a slab home? If so, treatment in the pipe trap (the trap is the place where the pipes pass through the cement) may be needed.
Also explained in our article is the fact that springtails thrive out in the soil surrounding the home and from there migrate which leads to seeing them in the home. Since there is no chemical strong enough to stop the migration, the real key to keeping them out is taking care of them around the perimeter of the home. This can be done with the granules and liquid sprays listed in our article. If you are able to establish a zone around the home which is free and clear of springtails, the odds of any getting inside are greatly decreased.
Since you asked for green products, I have taken some time to list our alternative and organic product choices we know will work on springtails. These are products we have found to work well around the home and all are from a new line of products which are as safe and green as you can find. Use them in place of any products which appear in the article and if you're confused at all, give us a call for more clarification but it's pretty straight forward here. For example, instead of the Bifen Granules, use the ECO GRANULES. Made from food oil extracts, it's so safe ECO Granules are totally exempt from needing federal registration numbers from the government.
We also have liquid concentrate replacement options. Instead of the Cyonara or Bifen concentrates listed in the article, you can use the organic spray we have listed here called BUG PATROL. It's certified for organic gardening and we know it works well for springtails. This would be sprayed around the home with the purpose of establishing a "buffer zone" where there are no springtails between your house and the yard. When a big enough springtail free zone is established, you will no longer be seeing any in the home.
Lastly, for inside the home, use the MOTHERS EARTH DUST in place of the Deltamethrin Dust. Mothers Earth is DE Dust and very effective yet safe to use inside. If you prefer the aerosol treatment instead, go with the ECO KO EXEMPT. Again, totally exempt from EPA numbers, the ECO works well on springtails and is a very "green" solution.
Here are direct links to all these products and information:
http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html
http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/eco-exempt-granules
http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/bug-patrol-rts
http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/mothers-earth-diatomaceous-dust
http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/eco-exempt-ko-contact-aerosol-14-oz
jonathan
Filed under organic spray by
I'm looking for a non toxic spray for use around my house. I've got a wide range of pests including spiders and raoches. Anything organic?
We have some organic sprays that work on spiders and roaches. The BUG PATROL RTS is probably your best bet and a good one for use around the home. It's organic and can be used safely on the house and plants without a risk to people or pets. As the label states it's approved for organic gardening so it's got the needed seal of approval. It also comes with a ready to spray nozzle. All you need to do is fit it onto your garden hose and turn on the water; no mixing needed as the included sprayer does all the work.
Here is a direct link to the Bug Patrol:
http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/bug-patrol-rts
jonathan www.bugspray.comFiled under organic spray by
I was looking for an nature friendly product to kill slugs and snails (kind of an oxymoron huh?). Most of the organic products seem to marginal at best. I want an organic product. Any help you could give me with this would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
First, we actually carry a "certified organic" slug bait. You can see it on our Non-Toxic site here:
http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/bait/sluggo
Second, watch out for products missing the OMRI or Organic Gardening logo's. At this point that is a major "flag" to us. There are just too many products out there being marketed and sold making all kinds of claims with nothing to back up what they cite the product can do. Currently the government and some other groups are still far behind the list of products that need to be reviewed and evaluated but they are working on it. For us, the process is paramount and a much needed "hoop" for anything we'll consider selling and when we see something has gone through it successfully getting certified in one category, we are then willing to consider selling it. Currently we know the bait listed above will work. We also know the DE DUST can be sprinkled out over the garden area and it will definitely kill any that enter the area or try to crawl over it. The only problem with the dust is that it won't last long and once it gets wet you'll need to reapply it. But it does work and can be a good way to kill off the ones you see on the spot without having to touch them!
jonathan
www.bugspray.com
Filed under nature friendly by
The infestation we have is relatively mild, but a nuisance (I've already had to throw out 2 dress suits, 3 coats and other clothing! So, I have everything sealed in garment bags now.). The problem is that my wife and I live in a very small apartment with 3 cats. As you know, most pesticides are highly toxic to cats, so we're just using regular household cleaners like Clorox clean up spray w/bleach (and soon the pheromone traps) to regularly clean infested areas keep the beetle population in check.
I really appreciate any other advice you may have. How long do the traps typically last before I need to change them?
Thanks very much for your help!Filed under pet friendly by
Hi,
We are looking for a product that is dog, cat and children friendly (preferably organic), and keep the spiders at bay. I have found eco exempt on your page and was wondering if that is what i need or if you have any other suggestions.
We have a queenslander style home with wooden boards and the property boarders onto the rain forrest.
I look forward to hearing from you.
ECO KO AEROSOL would be a great product that works well and is very safe to use. As explained in our product catalog, it uses food based ingredients so it's essentially non-toxic to mammals. The Aerosol would be the easiest product to use since it's ready to spray and comes in a can. But when it comes to spiders, it can sometimes take a little more effort to get good results. You don't mention where or what kind of spider you have so without this information, I don't know where the nest sites might be so let me make the following suggestion.
If you notice a lot of spiders around the house, particularly on the outside, you should consider some outdoor treatments. This will help keep out most any invasive insect including spiders. Two good actives which are very safe to use around people and pets would be either the ECO IC CONCENTRATE or the BUG PATROL RTS. Both work well on spiders and are what I would call pet friendly for sure.
Here are direct links to these items:
http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/eco-exempt-ko-contact-aerosol-14-oz
http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate
http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/bug-patrol-rts
jonathan
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