Thanks
J.W.

The CYPERMETHRIN listed in our CICADA KILLER CONTROL would not be the best option for this application need. Though I don't think the concentrate would be absorbed by the plant enough to pose a hazard, in general this active is not for use on plants that produce fruit or vegetables. Due to the close proximity of the treatment, I suggest opting for something else. Alternatively there are some organic or less toxic products we have which will work fine and still be safe to use around and even on the plants if needed.

The most direct approach would to wait till dark and then dust their open holes with CONCERN DE DUST. Apply it with a HAND DUSTER and you'll get instant control of any wasps in the nest when you dust. In theory you should be able to treat all the nests you have heavily enough to shut them down within minutes of the treatment.

Alternatively you could opt to spray some MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER directly down their nests. If done in the evening when you know they'll be back for the night, the treatment will kill them all on contact as it's poured or sprayed down their nest. In general, if you're thorough enough the first time you treat and carefully get each burrow, you can knock them all out with one application. But if you have 5 or more nests, it will probably take a couple of treatments since they can sometimes hide well or some peripheral nests can be missed.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page519.html

Cicada Killer Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/cicadakillers.html

Concern DE Dust:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/concern-diatomaceous-earth

Hand Duster:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/dusters/hand-dusters/crusader-hand-duster

Multi Purpose Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

This is a great question and one we get quite often. To best understand the answer it's important to understand the difference between "ready to use" products versus concentrates like we sell.

For starters, ready-to-use sprays don't need to be mixed; they usually come in a spray jug or bottle and can be used immediately as is. Concentrates will require mixing. In most cases water will be the "carrier" but many concentrates can be mixed with deodorized oil. Ready-to-use sprays are very dilute and to keep them in this form they require a lot of stabilizers. These additives insure the active ingredients don't break down so that over time the spray will remain intact as long as the product is stored at room temperature and out of direct sunlight. Concentrates cannot be used this way. Once mixed, they'll be vulnerable to rapid depreciation in their sprayable form. In other words, where sprayed they can last weeks or even months because this is how they were designed to be used. But these areas will quickly dry and assuming they're protected, the active ingredient can persist. In general, it won't do nearly as well if stored in water because the active isn't meant to be kept this way. But this is by design and not a shortcoming. Let me further explain.

One of the big "drawbacks" of any ready-to-use spray is that it has all kinds of toxic additives. Referred to as "solvents, stabilizers or suspension agents", in many cases these additives are more hazardous compared to the active ingredient! Additionally these very same additives can many times smell strong, burn plants or stain surfaces where sprayed and in general cause a lot more problems then they're worth. On the other hand concentrates mixed with water will be as close to pure as possible and many times won't have any odor or chance of staining. This would be one of their advantages. Additionally, it's always nice knowing every time you need to spray you can have a "fresh" batch of product made for the job at hand. No doubt storing a ready-to-use spray over time will have a negative impact on just how much active ingredient is actually in the spray the next time you go to use it.

Another problem with the ready-to-spray formulations is that the stabilizers don't actually do their job that well.. Many times they'll actually break the active down when kept in storage and this can be to the point where the active is barely detectable or useful anymore. Unfortunately there is no practical way to guage or test how much active might be left in any spray so in the end, you can very well buy a product that is already in it's "useless" range. To avoid this problem, the use of concentrates is the way to go and the only products we sell.

Of course, the big drawback of the concentrates we sell is that you need to mix them up. This does require a little effort and some precise measurement to make the finished spray just right, but fortunately the advent of small easy to pour "tip'n measure" containers are in use. They've made it easy to get exact measurements out of the container and into your spray tank. But another short coming is that the finished spray mixed won't last long in the spray tank. In general, it might be good for 1-2 days but don't store it any longer. Some concentrates might coagulate which can clog a sprayer. Others will simply loose their strength and won't work when applied. But again, they don't have all those "extra" ingredients the ready-to-use have so this is to be expected and not something we try to hide. In fact, it's something we embrace. Here's why.

If you have a vegetable garden you want to spray but are unsure of how much to mix, don't make an entire gallon to start. Instead, mix up just 1/2 gallon. After treating the given area a time or two you should know exactly how much you'll need and from then on, make only that exact amount. It might turn out to be just 1/2 or maybe 3/4's of a gallon. Regardless, any of the sprayers and concentrates we carry including the NEEM can be mixed to a specific amount of finished product. And it's quite common for people to only mix as little as a quart at a time for small applications so this is perfectly normal to do. In the end, using up what you mix the same day is the best way to go and definitely what we recommend.

Hopefully this answers your question and if you need some help determining how much concentrate you'll need to add to get the finished amount needed for your target site, give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290 and one of our reps will be able to assist.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Neem Garden Spray Concentrate:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/garden-defense-neem-concentrate

Thank you.

We have two insect repellents that work well on most any insects including cicada's. These products won't kill anything; they're only meant to keep annoying and invasive pests away. Used mostly for mosquitoes, gnats, wasps and other pests that commonly invade homes, these same products can be used to chase away cicada's.

The first one is the MOSQUITO REPELLENT. It comes in a ready-to-spray jug which means all you need to do is hook it up to your garden hose and you're ready to use it. The power of the water pressure for your home is what will propel it out and most homes supply a strong enough water flow so the spray can reach quite high. Be sure to get some material on as much of the tree as possible. And focus your attention to the trees they seem to like. Repeat when they return; most people will have to treat 2-3 times per season depending on the cycle for any particular year. And most applications will last 1-3 weeks.

The second option is a concentrate. NBS  INSECT REPELLENT is mostly used for pests like wasps, carpenter bees and other invasive insects on the home. The most popular way to use it is to add some to your paint or stain when finishing the exterior of the home or any other structure you want to keep pest free. It can also be mixed with water and sprayed out over these same areas. It's perfectly safe for plants and when used on trees and shrubs and bushes where cicada's like to rest, it will effectively repel them for 2-4 weeks. Again, retreat as needed and mix it up at the rate of 3 oz per gallon. Most people will use it in a HOSE END SPRAYER so they're able to reach quite high where cicada's like to roost.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/mosquito-flea-gnat-tick-repellent

Insect Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

Hose End Sprayer:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/hose-end-sprayers/gilmour-six-gallon-hose-end-385

If you read the write up on the NBS INSECT REPELLENT, you'll learn it won't kill anything so it's a good option for deterring this unwanted behavior. However, if the bees have already begun laying eggs, they might be reluctant to move away. Think of it this way.

If you were raising some kids and living in a home which was quite comfortable for you and your family, you wouldn't simply move away if you came home one day and noticed something foul smelling on the siding of the house. And if your kids were inside the home, you'd no doubt make sure they were safe and do whatever you could to make the smell go away so you could continue living there. But you wouldn't readily pick up and leave without trying to make it work first.

The same is true for any bees with an established nest. If you were to spray or pour the NBS down and on the wood where the drilling is happening, no doubt the bees will smell it. But if she's got young or eggs inside the nest, she probably won't just pack up and move. In fact she'll most likely try to wait it out hoping the smell will wane enough to be tolerable. Now there is a chance she will give up easily if the nest is new and not important but it's a 50-50 chance. NBS was really invented to stop new bee activity and not to drive away bees which were already established and nesting with young and it's important to understand this trait of the product.

In summary, there is a good chance the treatment will chase away the bees doing the damage. But if the nest is established with young or eggs, you'll have to treat it with the DRIONE DUST as explained in our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE to get rid of them once and for all.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

NBS Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

Carpenter Bee Article:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

As explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, mosquitoes commonly rest on plants and other vegetation. Though they don't commonly land on flowering plants, there is no practical way to treat everything but the parts of a plant where your honeybees will land (generally that would be the flower). And though removing your bee hives from the treatment area would work, I don't expect this to be a practical solution either. Fogs, sprays and dusts will all leave a residual over the entire plant so in the end, I'm afraid the only truly safe method of keeping the mosquitoes in check will be to use repellents. Fortuanately we have 2-3 that work quite well.

One of the best is the MOSQUITO REPELLENT RTS. It's a liquid concentrate that can be sprayed over your vegetation and basically anywhere you're seeing mosquitoes. Organic and safe for the environment, the beauty of this material is that it won't kill anything. Treatments can last a few weeks and it works on other pests like fleas, ticks and gnats keeping them all off the treated area.

Alternatively you may prefer to use a dry granular material like MOSQUITO SCAT. This product only needs to be sprinkled out over the turf and yard in areas you want to keep mosquito free. Treatments won't last as long as the spray but again, it's safe enough to be used without danger to other beneficial insects yet strong enough to keep away the undesirables.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Control:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Mosquito Liquid Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/mosquito-flea-gnat-tick-repellent

Mosquito Granule Repellent:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page681.html

There are several organic options that are made for garden plants. The two most common include the GARDEN DEFENSE WITH NEEM and the 3 IN ONE CONCENTRATE. Both of these have a short one day to harvest wait period which means you can spray either right up to the day before you intend on picking your fruit or vegetable since their residual is so safe and short lived.

As for the difference between the two; the Neem is highly active on most insects and tends to repel them for up to a week. It's really just for insect control where as the 3 in 1 has both a Miticide and a Fungicide included so it covers more problems common to the garden. Use it if you find either to be an issue during the garden growing season.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Neem Concentrate:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/garden-defense-neem-concentrate

3 in 1 Concentrate:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/3-in-1-fim-32-oz

Ideas?

There are many types of beetles and bugs which can wreak havoc in the garden. Some of these are quite persistent. The leaf footed bug is both big and intimidating and there are many species active around the United States. In most cases you'll only see one or two and they won't amass in any significant numbers. But when they do, if they're feeding on any one plant they can have an impact. The good news is you have plenty of options when it comes to controlling local populations.

Based on the fact you stated you're trying to keep an organic garden, I'll limit my suggesting to either the 3 IN 1 SPRAY or the MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER. Both are organic and can be used right up the last day of harvest so they are very safe. But we've found both to be quite active on tough hard shelled insects like the leaf footed bug. Treat every 2-4 weeks once the problem is resolved and you won't see many if any come back. We have seen these two products have a repellency action so they will do a good job of warning bees so they'll stay clear of treated plants too.

Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

3 In 1 Spray:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/3-in-1-fim-32-oz

Multipurpose Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

For example, here at my house, the length of residual has varied by almost the exact difference cited above. When I first moved to where I now reside, I found my treatments lasted about 2 weeks. This was true for most all the pests found on my property including spiders. I live on a river with lots of lush vegetation, shade and moisture so no doubt I knew it could be tough to get products to last when I decided to move here. But being in the business (and the fact that I can get a good price on the products I sell), I was undaunted. For the first few years I found I was treating about every 10-14 days "in season". But then we started to have a major drought a few years ago and by the second year of the drought, I noticed my treatments could go much longer and still be effective. Interestingly my lot wasn't that much different from before. In other words, it was still lush and green and shady. I'm thinking the plants were getting their water from the river bed. But I'm pretty sure the lack of rainfall combined with the lower humidity allowed the spray I applied to last a lot longer and in the end I was able to go just about 2 months before needing to retreat.

Now will that be what you can expect to happen if you were to apply ECO IC around your house? Probably. There is no doubt the length of residual for any product is dependent on factors like the rain, sun and general air moisture. But I would be amiss not to mention the impact a complete spider treating program would provide. In other words, if you were to treat the yard with the ECO GRANULES and spray the outside with the ECO IC CONCENTRATE, no doubt you'd get much better results compared to just spraying. And for obvious reasons, if you have spiders inside the home, treating with some ECO KO AEROSOL inside would be a big help opposed to just relying on the outside spray to keep them out.

So in summary, there is no doubt a lot of factors that can all have an impact on just how long any one concentrate or treatment might last. In the end you will undoubtedly find it to vary from year to year and even from season to season. But if you stay the course and treat the property for several years, over time you'll learn just what to expect given the current weather pattern during any one year. Personally I've got my lot down to a science. I'm able to gauge within a day when certain pests like mosquitoes, spiders and ants will "reappear" and it's mostly dependent on the local moisture levels. No doubt it has fluctuated and I suspect the same would be true for you as well.

Here are direct links for the products mentioned above:

ECO IC:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate

ECO Granules:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/eco-exempt-granules

ECO KO Aerosol:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/eco-exempt-ko-contact-aerosol-14-oz

We have a few options and I expect one will serve your needs adequately. Here are some suggestions.

The first would be the "strongest" option. It's federally exempt due to the fact that it uses food grade actives and is very safe for use around people and animals. ECO IC is a concentrate that can be used inside and outside the home and will no doubt control all the pests you're likely to encounter. It's not a pesticide but it does act like one in that it kills target insects and supplies a lengthy residual or residue that will remain active for some time.

The second option would be the BUG PATROL RTS. This is an organic spray that can't be used inside but instead is designed for use around the home. It's highly effective on tough to kill bugs like roaches and ants. By spraying once a quarter (every three months), you'd knock down the local insect population and in theory effectively reduce the odds of any coming inside. This approach is actually  much more effective compared to waiting till you see them inside and then spraying where everyone lives. Getting bugs outside the home, before they get inside, is a better approach and this product is one of the best organic options when using this method.

The third option would be the HOUSE PLANT INSECT KILLER. Labeled for use inside the home, on house plants and pretty much anywhere, it's ready to spray (comes in a can) and is very handy to have for spot treating. Use as needed or every 2 months. It won't be the most cost effective material to use if you're house is large but it might have a place in your overall program since it can be used as much as needed, is organic and can be applied on any vegetable plant inside or out in the yard around the home.

Lastly, you could opt for a total non pesticide approach with the pure INSECT REPELLENT. This product is to be used outside only and is mostly used as a paint or stain additive. When used in this fashion, it can repel pests for 1-2 years including all the ones you listed above. When used as a spray, results won't be as long but you should still get 2-3 months of residual. This would be the most "green" option as it's not a pesticide and won't kill anything. Given the location of the home, I'm not sure this will prove effective enough for your needs but it might.

In summary, all of these options are included on this site and considered non toxic when compared to traditional pesticides. Hopefully one of these options will fulfill your requirement. Here are links to the products mentioned above:

ECO IC:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate

Bug Patrol:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/bug-patrol-rts

House Plant Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/houseplant-insect-killer-10-oz

Insect Repellent: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

Thanks, W.K.

If you read our article on CLOVER MITE CONTROL, you'll learn they can be quite persistent and stubborn once they get well established. Depending on the source of your problem it's most likely one of the ECO products will be able to effectively control and eliminate the problem. The key is getting it where it needs to be and this will largely depend on the form used. Since it's important to treat the turf and the building siding, I don't think the ECO IC alone will do the job.

But if you first treat the turf with the ECO GRANULES followed by extensive treatments with the ECO EXEMPT AEROSOL to all the cracks and crevices, I'm sure you'll knock them down if you successfully treat their nests. Again, the key here is getting the product where it needs to be. The one limitation of the liquid ECO Exempt is that it won't penetrate all the cracks and crevices where clover mites are no doubt nesting. For that the aerosol version will be better suited.

And the ECO Granules will do a better job of lasting long so in the turf surrounding the home, a good application of it will really impact and knock down the local population as it tends to linger much longer. Liquid spraying will have it's value and definitely needs to be done to all the siding and "above turf" site where you see activity. Especially now that the clover mites like to come out in the open. But this isn't where they're nesting so in the end, more coverage will be needed. Combine the ECO IC with the granules and aerosol and you'll get the results you're wanting.

Lastly, the rate of mixing the concentrate will be 8 oz of ECO IC per gallon of water which can then be applied over 500 sq/ft. Most homes will require 10 lbs of granules to be applied monthly around the house perimeter followed by 2 gallons of spray over the top, the siding/foundation of the house and other objects like porches, fences etc. where activity is observed. All cracks and crevices on the home need to be treated with the Aerosol which will use 1/2-1 can per treatment. If done monthly you should be able to fully control the clover mite infestation in 6-12 months.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

Clover Mite Control: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page478.html

ECO IC Gallon:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate

ECO Granules:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/eco-exempt-granules

ECO Exempt Aerosol:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/eco-exempt-ko-contact-aerosol-14-oz

jonathan

www.bugspray.com