Thanks very much for your help!

I look forward to hearing from you.

ECO KO AEROSOL would be a great product that works well and is very safe to use. As explained in our product catalog, it uses food based ingredients so it's essentially non-toxic to mammals. The Aerosol would be the easiest product to use since it's ready to spray and comes in a can. But when it comes to spiders, it can sometimes take a little more effort to get good results. You don't mention where or what kind of spider you have so without this information, I don't know where the nest sites might be so let me make the following suggestion.

If you notice a lot of spiders around the house, particularly on the outside, you should consider some outdoor treatments. This will help keep out most any invasive insect including spiders. Two good actives which are very safe to use around people and pets would be either the ECO IC CONCENTRATE or the BUG PATROL RTS. Both work well on spiders and are what I would call pet friendly for sure.

Here are direct links to these items:

http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/eco-exempt-ko-contact-aerosol-14-oz

http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate

http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/bug-patrol-rts

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

Bees are quite sensitive to insecticides and most importantly, subject to more exposure to insecticides based on  how they behave. Any insect which is mobile and typically likes to land on plants all day long is a prime candidate for some kind of toxin exposure. Compared to other insects like Cave Crickets which live and thrive in dark caverns away from the sun, people and other extreme influences, it's amazing bees, wasps and other social insects are able to live more than a day in our dangerous world. With this in mind, anyone that keeps or cares about bees should make an effort to decrease the liklihood of exposing them to undue levels of pesticide. And one way to do this is to use products which don't last long after they're applied.

The product you inquired about is in fact one such product. Certified for organic gardening, MP INSECT KILLER has a short life span. It has just 1 day to harvest which means it's pretty much gone in a day of being applied. Having a "1 day to harvest" means in one day, crops which have been sprayed with it are suitable for human consumption. Such labeling is only extended to products which break down rapidly. By dissipating rapidly, there is less chance of a toxic exposure to non-target insects like bees since the product isn't effectively hanging around killing everything that lands on it. The mindset here is you're spraying a target insect you see and know about; a good effort on your part should eliminate the real targeted insect and then afterward, within a day, the product used will be gone and the plant can go back to as it was prior to being sprayed. The big plus is that the targeted insect is now gone so that in theory, the plant should benefit (assuming the targeted insect was targeted because it was doing some kind of damage). Plants treated with long lasting residuals can in fact impact hundreds if not thousands of insects during their course of life and if you keep bees, you know exactly what I'm talking about. In general, it's best to avoid using such products unless the situation warrants such applications or the host plant is one bees, wasps and other beneficial insects avoid.

In summary, products like INSECTICIDAL SOAP and MP INSECT KILLER are two good choices if you need to spray around the home, out in the yard, on plants which bees like to frequent. Both products do an admirable job of controlling most any insect and though they won't last more than a day, they won't have a profound impact on non-target insects that aren't causing any damage in the first place.

Gnats in the home can be a nuisance throughout the winter months. Though cold outside, most any home has the conditions needed to enable them to prosper. Potted plants are an ideal gnat producer and when these plants yield either fruit or vegetables, there is the additional challenge of what to use safely.

If you suspect the gnats are nesting on the plants, I suggest treating them with one of the organic concentrates or aerosols listed on this site. You'll need to treat both the plant and the soil if you're seeing activity in this area. MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER would be a good concentrate to use for the soil. It can safely be sprayed on vegetable and fruit yielding plants and won't make the banana's uneatable. Treat once a week adding some concentrate to the watering can. This material will work well on mealy bugs, thrips, aphids and whiteflies  which all like to nest in potted plant soil.

I also suggest getting some HOUSE PLANT KILLER AEROSOL. This product will kill gnats on contact but it's not as strong as the concentrate. The good thing about the aerosol is that you can use it quickly, for spot treating, as needed. Keep a can on hand for emergency use in between regular treatments with the Multi Purpose Killer. Remember, gnats can manifest themselves most anywhere in the home. They love garbage incinerators, garbage pails, compost piles, pet cages and fruit or produce bowls. Be sure to keep these areas clean and treat with the House Plant Killer when activity is discovered.

As a general rule, the use of aerosols close to plants should only be done outside in the open. This prevents direct exposure of the aerosol mist to the plant. Most all traditional aerosols contain solvents and other ingredients that can cause problems when coming in contact with plants. Outside applications can be used downwind ensuring none will coat the plant; inside the home without a breeze or wind, the chance of prolonged exposure is much higher and should be avoided.

To use one of our residuals like BAYGON in the home where you keep plants, we suggest you first remove the plants prior to the application. If you let the area settle at least one hour after treating, the plants can be reintroduced without a problem. It's really during the treatment and the first 30-60 minutes afterwards which present the real risk. Keep the plants away during this time if you must spray inside and you should be fine.

Alternatively, you could apply one of these two organic aerosols: HOUSE PLANT INSECT KILLER or the ORGANIC FLYING INSECT KILLER. Either can be used safely inside around plants and do not pose a hazard to people or pets. Certified as organic, these two products do a good job of handling most any insect on or around plants. The only drawback is that you will have to use them more frequently since they don't last as long as the Baygon. But other than that, we have found they work well. If you have further questions, please give us a call on our toll free at 1-800-877-7290.

In our Ant Control article we feature several products including liquid concentrates and granules. Either of these would be safe and highly effective on most any ant. We also have an alternative option which uses natural food extracts and oils as the active. These natural products are nontoxic and yet effective. The liquid alternative is ECO IC and is basically mixed and applied like any other product. It can safely be used around any garden without cause for concern. Use a good Pump Sprayer to do the application and spray it in the yard, on the home or even the home without any danger to people or pets.

But when it comes to ants, getting the entire yard is important so the use of some kind of lawn granule is often times required for long term protection. The alternative option here would be the ECO Lawn Granules. Both options will work on ants but keep in mind they won't last as long as the more traditional products featured in our article. In other words, you'll probably have to apply them more frequently.

And we even have an organic ant bait. NIBAN FG is OMRI listed and safe for use inside as well as around the home and won't pose an undue risk to people or pets when used properly. If you have further questions or concerns, please give us a call on our toll free 1-800-877-7290.

ECO Aerosol isn't labeled for use on plants directly. But we do have HOUSE PLANT INSECT KILLER. It has been formulated exactly for this purpose. Safe enough to use in the home and effective on a wide range of insects including aphids, spider mites, red mites, mealybugs, thrips, scale, caterpillars, and whiteflies, it can be used as frequently as needed and does a good job.

Ladybugs can be a tough and persistent pest once they find your house and move in for the winter. Most people think of ladybugs as a "good bug" since they like to feed on common garden variety pests like whiteflies and aphids. As our LADYBUG CONTROL article explains, there is another species of ladybug present in the Unites States which has been imported and released on purpose. Originally the intention of importing this ladybug was all well and good but it was later learned this species hibernates during the winter. That by itself was no major problem but when it turned out the place they most liked to hibernate was on our homes and other man made structures, this insect was quickly categorized as another "invasive pest".

Once your home is marked and scented as a good place to live, ladybugs in the local vicinity will find their way to your home. This will usually happen every spring and fall. It's during this time that treatments should be done. Cypermethrin outside and Baygon inside are two very effective products to use but there are organic alternatives. The BUG PATROL RTS is certificied for organic gardening and strong enough to knock down ladybugs as is MULTI INSECT KILLER. Use either on the outside of the home and attempt to spray as much of the siding and overhangs where you see these invasive ladybugs active. Once inside the home, use the ECO KO AEROSOL for a quick knockdown and lasting residual. Made from food grade active ingredients, ECO Aerosol is both fast acting and safe to use around children and pets. Expect to treat a few times in the fall and then again in the spring. The following year the invasion should be a lot less noticeable and maybe barely detectable depending on how well you knock down the current population in your first year of treating. If you have further questions, please give us a call on our toll free at 1.800.877.7290.

I have skunks and raccoons digging up our grass going after grubs. I live by a lake and would like to know what natural remedies are out there to use to get rid of the grubs that will not affect the fish in the lake. Thanks for your time. B.

Grubs can cause all kinds of problems including plant death, unwanted soil PH swings and animal predation. If there is water close to grub infested lawns, traditional treatments are usually not recommended. Fortunately there is a wide range of natural alternatives that can be employed. Once these products are put to use and the grub populations are reduced, animals will be forced to forage elsewhere.

One of the best natural grub remedies available now is the ECO GRANULES. Using food oils as actives, these slow dissolving granules can last a month or more and when watered into the dirt. Get some applied now and they will start working immediately. Grub control is best achieved during the winter so the time to treat is now. Most important is that ECO Granules can be used in close proximity to sensitive areas and will not pose a danger to the wildlife.

Next, spray over the top with the ECO IC CONCENTRATE as this will get the granules activated and you'll start knocking out the grubs that much faster. If the area is small and the ECO is too big of a container for your needs, get the ORGANIC GRUB RTS. It's been certified to be used for organic gardening and is very gentle on the turf. It comes with it's own hose end sprayer so you just have to hook it up the garden hose and you'll be ready to spray.

One other thing; be sure to check the SOIL PH if you haven't done so recently. Grub infestations will naturally lower the soil PH and when this level dips below 6.0, it becomes a real problem affecting a wide range of things that may be in the landscape. Being out of balance will cause the soil to render most insecticides, herbicides, fertilizer and other turf products pretty much useless. Additionally, plants won't be able to grow properly and generally get sick and become more vulnerable to all kinds of problems with out the proper balance PH in the soil. Lastly, acidic or alkaline soil in close proximity to water isn't good for any fish in the water so make sure the turf has a good PH measurement before beginning any treatment program.

How do I kill the grasshoppers and not kill my dog? How long are your products toxic? What do you recommend?  I can move her to the front yard while I treat, but the little fallen bodies, are they toxic to her if she munches on them?

Non toxic grasshopper control can be tough. As explained in our GRASSHOPPER CONTROL ARTICLE, they can infest properties by the thousands and the only way to knock them down is to apply massive quantities of chemical. Generally this is not a place where pets should be staying following the treatments. Additionally, eating the grasshoppers that have been sprayed would present a hazard to the dog and should be avoided when using the products listed in our the article above.

An alternative choice would be to use one of the organic options listing on this site. There are two which could be used and both will work. INSECTICIDAL SOAP would be the safest route. It works fast and will kill the grasshoppers you spray. But it's gone in a day which means there is no residual following the application. The good news about this is that your dog could be brought back into the treated area as early as the day after you spray. Additionally, if he ate any of the dead grasshoppers, he wouldn't be at any risk. The bad news is you might have to spray every few days till they are gone since the Soap doesn't provide any residual. Additionally, you will have to use a HOSE END SPRAYER to get good coverage over all your yard.

Another option would be the organic GRUB KILLER RTS. This material is a little stronger. It will last a week following your application so this means the dog shouldn't come into the area for this long following the treatment. If you are able to keep the dog away for this long of period, the Grub Killer would be a better option since it will last longer for sure.