The best snake repellent for use inside is the PEST RID GRANULES and PEST RID SPRAY. Apply the granules throughout the space focusing on the foundation walls and any supporting pillars. Snakes will naturally stay close to this part of the space. If the foundation wall is made with cement blocks, try to get some granules into this space too since snakes love living in hollow chambers of hollow block.

Next, spray over the top with the Pest Rid Spray. Be sure to spray the foundation walls too, and up to the where the floor joists and sill plate rest on it. Snakes will commonly forage in these areas and if you only treat the ground, they'll simply move up above your application.

Lastly, apply a band of SNAKE OUT around the entire outside perimeter of the home. Unlike the snake away, Snake Out  and Pest Rid are made with natural ingredients and exempt from federal registration because they're so safe to use around the home. This means you won't be exposed to anything nearly as strong as the actives found in snake away.

As for the length of control; the inside treatments with Pest Rid will last 30-60 days. The outside treatments with Snake Out will last about 2-4 weeks.

Here are direct links to products listed above:

Pest Rid Granules: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/pest-rid-repellent-granules

Pest Rid Spray: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/pest-rid-exempt-insect-animal-repellent

Snake Out Granules:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/snake-out-exempt-repellent

Your information about CONFUSED FLOUR BEETLES is helpful. My concern is that applying the insecticide around food would be harmful. After cleaning the cabinet and discarding the contaminated food, would the pheromone beetle traps alone be effective? I don't like the idea of spraying toxic stuff around where I store food.

Please advise. Thank you very much!

If you have been able to identify all the confused flour beetle infested food and discarded it along with thoroughly cleaning out the cabinet, you could opt to just set out some FLOUR BEETLE TRAPS. This alone won't solve the problem should it turn out they are nesting in some hidden void. So if the trap starts capturing more then 2-3 beetles, you will probably need to treat.

A relatively safe product to consider is the TOPIA AEROSOL. It's federally exempt from needing a registration number because it uses actives that are safe for use around people and pets. If beetles start appearing in the cabinet or traps, it means they must be in some food item you missed or maybe a hidden wall void or cabinet space. It's here you would want to apply the Topia and if done correctly, there should be no exposure to anything being stored in the cabinet anyway.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flour Beetle Traps: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/pantry-patrol-beetle-weevil-trap

Topia: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/topia-exempt-aerosol

Confused Flour Beetles: http://www.bugspray.com/article/confusedflour.html

It's very likely there is some kind of food in the ground and most every time the food turns out to be grubs. This is especially true in the winter. So for starters, I suggest you do a grub treatment with our organic GRUB KILLER. Treat at least twice as much as where he's digging. And if he starts in elsewhere, treat again.

Next, set out some PEST RID GRANULES. These are made from all natural ingredients and won't pose a hazard to the soil or any of your plants. Next spray over the top with PEST RID SPRAY. The combination of both granules and spray will keep any skunk away.

Grub Killer: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/grub-killer-rts

Pest Rid:http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/pest-rid-exempt-insect-animal-repellent

Pest Rid Granules: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/pest-rid-repellent-granules

APHID ALARM is basically the manmade version of what aphids naturally release when they are "afraid". When aphids get scared and "alarm", they send out a scent to the aphids of their colony to stay away. By mimicking this scent and then placing it out on the plant you'd like to protect, aphids will know to "stay away" instinctively.

We also recommend you treat any plants you'd like to protect with some PEST RID. It's a very effective repellent made with all natural ingredients and completely organic. Treatments will last 3-4 weeks and will keep all undesirable pests like aphids, whiteflies and others off treated plants.

Aphid Alarm: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/aphid-alarm

Pest Rid: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/pest-rid-exempt-insect-animal-repellent

Silverfish will live and breed in attics, wall voids and basically any wall space or void. They love insulation, the kind used in walls and attics, and once established in these areas will migrate inside to living spaces. Houses and apartments are some of their favorite places in which to live.

Non toxic silverfish control can be done using SILVERFISH TRAPS and MOTHERS EARTH DUST. Set the traps in any room where you see activity. Silverfish traps will help by capturing foraging silverfish and effectively prevent them from nesting. But when used alone, silverfish traps wont' stop the invasion.

To stop silverfish invading, treat all routes of entry with Mothers Earth DE dust. Silverfish hate this stuff and will avoid it. Use a HAND DUSTER and "puff" some into cracks, crevices and wall spaces. Common routes of entry include light switch covers, electric outlets, light fixtures, air vents, water pipes, drain lines and basically anywhere a crack or crevice exists. A good dusting with Mothers Earth dust will make these areas unusable by silverfish so they'll stay out of your living areas.

One last item worth mentioning is TOPIA AEROSOL. It's organic and safe for use around pets and children too. Use it in all cracks and crevices instead of the dust if you prefer something easier to use. Keep in mind the Topia won't last nearly as long as the dust. In fact the difference between the two products is big. Expect to get 1-2 weeks of control with the aerosol but with the dust, treatments can last 6-12 months so the difference is significant.

we have nats all in our home and we have two kids and two cats. i need a treatment to be safe for them and i watch a two year old girl too. but i need to know how to get rid of them. we have tried sprays but it doesn't seem to help. so if you can give me a idea i would love it.

When we move from the warm months to fall and winter, many pests will commonly start nesting inside the home. Nats are one of these pests. Common places they'll nest will be in the litter box, the drain of any sink – especially sinks that have "sinkerators", recycling bins, garbage pails, garbage disposals, drain pans under washing machines or refrigerators as well as plant pots (the pot holding the soil for any indoor plants). If you have any of the aforementioned, I suggest you start looking at these locations as possible nest sites.

Now what you can be used to treat these areas? In many cases, a simple flying insect killer can do the job. We have two that are easy to use and very effective. The first is a pyrethrin based spray called PT-565. A simply 1-2 second blast around any of the areas listed above will take care of nats instantly. This can be done as often as once an hour and can be applied with people in the home.

The organic equivalent would be the HOUSEPLANT INSECT KILLER. It can safely be used in the home around people and pets and will kill nats instantly too.

Both of these options can be used as frequently as you want but remember that neither will "solve" the problem. So if you find the nats keep coming back daily, you'll need to locate just where it is they're reproducing and nesting. Once you find that location, you can treat the area to stop the reproduction which ultimately will make it so you aren't seeing them at all.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

PT-565:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-565-xlo

Houseplant Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/houseplant-insect-killer-10-oz

Nat Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1801.html

In fact all the products we have listed in our MOTH CONTROL article can be safely used in kitchen area as well as the pantry. There are safety video's on each product page which covers all the details you need to know in order to both use and store the items safely and these directions are easy to follow.

From this site we have several alternative products that are organic which can be substituted for the traditional pesticides listed in our article. In place of the Baygon Aerosol, you could go with the KO EXEMPT AEROSOL. But you'll still need to set out some MOTH TRAPS to make sure you get them all.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Moth Control:  http://www.indianmealmoths.com/meal-moth-control

KO Aerosol:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/eco-exempt-ko-contact-aerosol-14-oz

Moth Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/meal-moth-2-pk

On this site, the NBS product page has the pricing listed just below the "documentation" section. And here is a direct link to it in our shopping cart:

NBS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

As for it's frequency of use; you may reapply it as a spray as often as you'd like. No doubt using it this way won't yield the same results (it won't last as long when used as a spray compared to a stain or paint additive) but it can be used this way for sure.

You have what's called DIGGER BEES. There are thousands of species throughout the world and what's most interesting about this bee is that they tend to nest in close proximity whether they're a communal or solitary species. The net result is that you can have thousands of them in the yard and they can appear "suddenly" and almost overnight. This will usually happen in the spring.

Now if they're a communal species, they will be closely linked to a central nest. This will be in an area the size of a kitchen table. But if they're solitary, they will be dispersed over a large area, maybe most if not all of the yard, with hundreds if not thousands of individual nests.

Based on your message, there would have to have been some nests in the yard last year which were obviously successful. What we find commonly happens is that nests will start small and innocently one year and then explode the next year. Since some of these species can lay thousands of eggs, just a few in the yard one season can easily become a few thousand a year later.

To control the problem you'll need to apply the granules and liquid spray listed in our Digger Bee article. These products are quite strong and will provide quick results. The organic option would be to substitute the products listed in our article with ECO GRANULES and BUG PATROL (these are listed on this site). Keep in mind the products listed in our article are more "traditional" pesticides and will no doubt work faster. The ECO Granules and Bug Patrol will be shorter lived; expect to get about a month from the ECO Granules and just 1 week with the Bug Patrol.

It's also important to understand the "surge" in population you're seeing is because you have a lot of pupae hatching. This is the third stage of the bee and when lying in the ground, these cannot be killed by the treatment. Since they don't all hatch at the same time, it will take several treatments to eradicate them because every time there are new ones hatching after you spray, you'll start seeing new ones in the yard. This is perfectly normal. So don't feel the spray isn't working when you first start using it. We've found it can take 4-8 weeks for the pupae to all hatch out so be diligent and stay the course if you want to get rid of them once and for all.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Digger Bee Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/diggerwasps.html

ECO Granules:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/eco-exempt-granules

Bug Patrol:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/bug-patrol-rts

Thank you!

All the products featured on this site are what we consider to be "low impact" or "organic" so you've come to the right place. We have many alternative options to the items listed in our article and these are what we consider to be the "best of the best". Use any of the following and you'll get almost as good results compared to the more traditional items we suggest.

Since it sounds like these guys are up under the siding, a good dusting is in order. In our BOXELDER BUG CONTROL article, we list DRIONE DUST. On this site, either ECO DUST or MOTHERS EARTH DE would be good alternatives.

The aerosol we list in our article is PHANTOM. The alternative listed here is ECO KO AEROSOL.

Lastly, if you want to spray the outside of the structure to repel them every fall when they come to hibernate, use the NBS INSECT REPELLENT instead of the CYPERMETHRIN listed in our article.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Boxelder Bug Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/boxelder.html

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

ECO Dust:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/eco-exempt-dust

Mothers Earth Dust:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/mothers-earth-diatomaceous-dust

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

ECO KO:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/eco-exempt-ko-contact-aerosol-14-oz

NBS:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin