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There is a skunk that's been digging in my vegetable garden. Right now it's winter but I still need an organic repellent that won't be dangerous to the plants and vegetables that will soon be growing. I'm not sure what he's digging for but he's pulling up the top layer of soil every night. Suggestions?

It's very likely there is some kind of food in the ground and most every time the food turns out to be grubs. This is especially true in the winter. So for starters, I suggest you do a grub treatment with our organic GRUB KILLER. Treat at least twice as much as where he's digging. And if he starts in elsewhere, treat again.

Next, set out some PEST RID GRANULES. These are made from all natural ingredients and won't pose a hazard to the soil or any of your plants. Next spray over the top with PEST RID SPRAY. The combination of both granules and spray will keep any skunk away.

Grub Killer: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/grub-killer-rts

Pest Rid:http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/pest-rid-exempt-insect-animal-repellent

Pest Rid Granules: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/pest-rid-repellent-granules

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How does the aphid alarm work? Does it give off a chemical? I'm looking for something non toxic to control aphids.

APHID ALARM is basically the manmade version of what aphids naturally release when they are "afraid". When aphids get scared and "alarm", they send out a scent to the aphids of their colony to stay away. By mimicking this scent and then placing it out on the plant you'd like to protect, aphids will know to "stay away" instinctively.

We also recommend you treat any plants you'd like to protect with some PEST RID. It's a very effective repellent made with all natural ingredients and completely organic. Treatments will last 3-4 weeks and will keep all undesirable pests like aphids, whiteflies and others off treated plants.

Aphid Alarm: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/aphid-alarm

Pest Rid: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/pest-rid-exempt-insect-animal-repellent

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I'm looking for something non toxic to use in my apartment for silverfish. They're in my bathroom and living room. I mostly see them at night. I think they're coming in from the storage space above me because I don't see any in my apartment when I look. But every other night it's like they come out and I'm afraid of getting infested.

Silverfish will live and breed in attics, wall voids and basically any wall space or void. They love insulation, the kind used in walls and attics, and once established in these areas will migrate inside to living spaces. Houses and apartments are some of their favorite places in which to live.

Non toxic silverfish control can be done using SILVERFISH TRAPS and MOTHERS EARTH DUST. Set the traps in any room where you see activity. Silverfish traps will help by capturing foraging silverfish and effectively prevent them from nesting. But when used alone, silverfish traps wont' stop the invasion.

To stop silverfish invading, treat all routes of entry with Mothers Earth DE dust. Silverfish hate this stuff and will avoid it. Use a HAND DUSTER and "puff" some into cracks, crevices and wall spaces. Common routes of entry include light switch covers, electric outlets, light fixtures, air vents, water pipes, drain lines and basically anywhere a crack or crevice exists. A good dusting with Mothers Earth dust will make these areas unusable by silverfish so they'll stay out of your living areas.

One last item worth mentioning is TOPIA AEROSOL. It's organic and safe for use around pets and children too. Use it in all cracks and crevices instead of the dust if you prefer something easier to use. Keep in mind the Topia won't last nearly as long as the dust. In fact the difference between the two products is big. Expect to get 1-2 weeks of control with the aerosol but with the dust, treatments can last 6-12 months so the difference is significant.

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hello,

we have nats all in our home and we have two kids and two cats. i need a treatment to be safe for them and i watch a two year old girl too. but i need to know how to get rid of them. we have tried sprays but it doesn't seem to help. so if you can give me a idea i would love it.

When we move from the warm months to fall and winter, many pests will commonly start nesting inside the home. Nats are one of these pests. Common places they'll nest will be in the litter box, the drain of any sink – especially sinks that have "sinkerators", recycling bins, garbage pails, garbage disposals, drain pans under washing machines or refrigerators as well as plant pots (the pot holding the soil for any indoor plants). If you have any of the aforementioned, I suggest you start looking at these locations as possible nest sites.

Now what you can be used to treat these areas? In many cases, a simple flying insect killer can do the job. We have two that are easy to use and very effective. The first is a pyrethrin based spray called PT-565. A simply 1-2 second blast around any of the areas listed above will take care of nats instantly. This can be done as often as once an hour and can be applied with people in the home.

The organic equivalent would be the HOUSEPLANT INSECT KILLER. It can safely be used in the home around people and pets and will kill nats instantly too.

Both of these options can be used as frequently as you want but remember that neither will "solve" the problem. So if you find the nats keep coming back daily, you'll need to locate just where it is they're reproducing and nesting. Once you find that location, you can treat the area to stop the reproduction which ultimately will make it so you aren't seeing them at all.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

PT-565:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-565-xlo

Houseplant Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/houseplant-insect-killer-10-oz

Nat Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1801.html

 

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I'm looking for an insecticide spray for these bugs.  I have pantry pest traps, but this time they don't seem to be working.  Is there a spay that is safe to use in this area?

In fact all the products we have listed in our MOTH CONTROL article can be safely used in kitchen area as well as the pantry. There are safety video's on each product page which covers all the details you need to know in order to both use and store the items safely and these directions are easy to follow.

From this site we have several alternative products that are organic which can be substituted for the traditional pesticides listed in our article. In place of the Baygon Aerosol, you could go with the KO EXEMPT AEROSOL. But you'll still need to set out some MOTH TRAPS to make sure you get them all.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Moth Control:  http://www.indianmealmoths.com/meal-moth-control

KO Aerosol:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/eco-exempt-ko-contact-aerosol-14-oz

Moth Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/meal-moth-2-pk

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Just found your website & am interested in the NBS paint additive.  I can't find a price list.  Also, the info says it should be reapplied every one to two years.  I don't paint my house that often, can I reapply it over the paint?
Thanks.

On this site, the NBS product page has the pricing listed just below the "documentation" section. And here is a direct link to it in our shopping cart:

NBS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

As for it's frequency of use; you may reapply it as a spray as often as you'd like. No doubt using it this way won't yield the same results (it won't last as long when used as a spray compared to a stain or paint additive) but it can be used this way for sure.

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how do I get rid of them so my very small dog can run in the yard? I have thousands of them on one acre of lawn. thank you

You have what's called DIGGER BEES. There are thousands of species throughout the world and what's most interesting about this bee is that they tend to nest in close proximity whether they're a communal or solitary species. The net result is that you can have thousands of them in the yard and they can appear "suddenly" and almost overnight. This will usually happen in the spring.

Now if they're a communal species, they will be closely linked to a central nest. This will be in an area the size of a kitchen table. But if they're solitary, they will be dispersed over a large area, maybe most if not all of the yard, with hundreds if not thousands of individual nests.

Based on your message, there would have to have been some nests in the yard last year which were obviously successful. What we find commonly happens is that nests will start small and innocently one year and then explode the next year. Since some of these species can lay thousands of eggs, just a few in the yard one season can easily become a few thousand a year later.

To control the problem you'll need to apply the granules and liquid spray listed in our Digger Bee article. These products are quite strong and will provide quick results. The organic option would be to substitute the products listed in our article with ECO GRANULES and BUG PATROL (these are listed on this site). Keep in mind the products listed in our article are more "traditional" pesticides and will no doubt work faster. The ECO Granules and Bug Patrol will be shorter lived; expect to get about a month from the ECO Granules and just 1 week with the Bug Patrol.

It's also important to understand the "surge" in population you're seeing is because you have a lot of pupae hatching. This is the third stage of the bee and when lying in the ground, these cannot be killed by the treatment. Since they don't all hatch at the same time, it will take several treatments to eradicate them because every time there are new ones hatching after you spray, you'll start seeing new ones in the yard. This is perfectly normal. So don't feel the spray isn't working when you first start using it. We've found it can take 4-8 weeks for the pupae to all hatch out so be diligent and stay the course if you want to get rid of them once and for all.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Digger Bee Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/diggerwasps.html

ECO Granules:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/eco-exempt-granules

Bug Patrol:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/bug-patrol-rts

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Hi!  We have a big box elder bug problem!  I'm pretty sure they are in our walls as well as outside. We see them all year round in the house and on the south and west sides of our home in warmer months.  It feels like they've taken over our home!

I would like to get rid of them without harse chemicals.  So I've been researching for non-toxic products to help us.  If there is such a product, we need to find something that we can use inside and be able to spray under the siding.  When we tap the siding, the box elder bugs come out like a swarm of bees.  It's discusting!

Any product recommendations you can give us is greatly appreciated.  As I've said, we want nontoxic products that are as effective as other products.

Thank you!

All the products featured on this site are what we consider to be "low impact" or "organic" so you've come to the right place. We have many alternative options to the items listed in our article and these are what we consider to be the "best of the best". Use any of the following and you'll get almost as good results compared to the more traditional items we suggest.

Since it sounds like these guys are up under the siding, a good dusting is in order. In our BOXELDER BUG CONTROL article, we list DRIONE DUST. On this site, either ECO DUST or MOTHERS EARTH DE would be good alternatives.

The aerosol we list in our article is PHANTOM. The alternative listed here is ECO KO AEROSOL.

Lastly, if you want to spray the outside of the structure to repel them every fall when they come to hibernate, use the NBS INSECT REPELLENT instead of the CYPERMETHRIN listed in our article.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Boxelder Bug Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/boxelder.html

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

ECO Dust:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/eco-exempt-dust

Mothers Earth Dust:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/mothers-earth-diatomaceous-dust

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

ECO KO:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/eco-exempt-ko-contact-aerosol-14-oz

NBS:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

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I LIVE IN A HIGH-RISE AND THESE BEETLES ARE ALL OVER OUR TERRACES AND OUR BUILDING. I NEED A ORGANIC PRODUCT TO GET RID OF THEM  BECAUSE MY NEIGHBORS HAVE DOGS AND I DON'T WANT TO MAKE THEM SICK IF IT DRIPS ON TO THEIR BALCONY.THESE ARE THE NEW BUGS FROM ASIA THAT STINK. LAST YEAR WE COULDN'T GO OUT ON OUR TERRENCE OR LEAVE OUR DOORS OPEN HELP!!!

Go with any of the following: MULTIPUPOSE INSECE KILLER, BUG PATROL RTS or NBS REPELLENT.

The Multipurpose can be used with any of these SPRAYERS and will both kill and keep these beetles away for a week or longer. The Bug Patrol comes in a hose end sprayer so just hook it to your garden hose and spray away. It will work like the Multi Purpose in that it will both kill and repel for a week or longer. The NBS is just a repellent so it won't kill anything. It can be sprayed with anything.

All these products are organic and safe to be used on the building.

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We have been told that we have weevils living in our walls. We have nine indoor cats and I would like a pet-safe way to get rid of the weevils. My wife had made arrangements to get rid of them from an exterminator, but they want to spray all the walls at the baseboard and I'm certain it's going to ruin the paint. (We have our walls painted with flat paint and if it gets wet, it stains.) The weevils are NOT in our pantry. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

First, I can't imagine any pest control service that would knowingly destroy the finish where they spray so I think you may have misunderstood what they intended on doing. The products we use in homes for pest control have changed quite a bit and currently there are some which go on "dry". My favorite is PHANTOM. It's odorless, slow acting and works great on spiders. My home has hardwood floors so anything wet is out of the question. I use the Phantom throughout and it works great. At no time can you tell anything has been applied because when used properly, you can't see it. I also use it on my boat. The boat decking is quite shiny and again, if there was ever a chance of something being left behind following the treatment, my boat would be where it could be seen. If you're wanting the best option for this problem that's both low odor and safe for use around people and pets, I'd go with this option.

Second, since you feel these weevils are in the wall, I'd apply some there too. Phantom is slow acting and won't kill anything for a few days following the initial application but this is by design. Alternatively you can go with the MOTHERS EARTH DUST in the wall void which would no doubt take them out too. The key with dusting will be making sure you get good coverage in the space. Use a HAND DUSTER to get it applied and if done right, one dose will last 6-12 months.

Lastly, you could opt to apply some HOUSEPLANT INSECT KILLER. It's organic and does not provide any residual. This means you'll have to spray over and over as new weevils appear. But this would be the "safest" option because it's not persistent or long lasting.

And don't rule out installing some WEEVIL TRAPS. These can prove helpful and are very safe since they're not a spray. Traps won't solve infestations but can help to monitor and reduce the amount active in the living area.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Mothers Earth Dust:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/mothers-earth-diatomaceous-dust

House Plant Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/houseplant-insect-killer-10-oz

Hand Duster:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader

Weevil Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/3pk-cf-rf-k-rw-st-pp

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Dear Sirs:

My plantains (similar to bananas but generally used after they're cooked) have borers called Black Weevils.  These borers make the bodies of the plant weak and decrease the sizes of the bunches by about one third.  Here they sell Feridine (sp?) to kill them and that is a deadly chemical. I don't want to use this on my plantains but instead want one of your organic products.  What I need to know is do you have something that will kill this particular weevil?  I do not even know what it looks like, but when I harvest the fruit and cut the plant down (they only fruit one time) I see the dark brown holes in the bodies of the plants make by these bugs.

Please let me know if one of your products will kill them.  I must stay organic so your product qualifies in that respect.

Thank you, Nancy B.

Go with the MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER. It's organic and we have had great success using it for all kinds of weevil pests here in the states. I'm not sure when your plants are being attacked so I would recommend using it at least every two weeks whether you have signs of the weevils or not. I say this because Multi Purpose won't last more than a few days so it's not nearly as long lasting as traditional products like Feridine.

Multi Purpose Insect Killer: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

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Hello,

I was told by some family that sulfer spread over my pasture would help control mange mites. Is that true? Can y'all help me with this?

This is a bit of a "old wives tale" though there is some reason why the two have become linked. This might be a bit hard to follow but I'll try to explain what I have observed which might lend some reason as to why this could have happened.

First, SULFUR is commonly used to reduce a high SOIL PH. Farmers have used it as a soil amendment throughout history and with good reason. When farming, certain crops can affect the soil ph making it move in one direction or the other. Two common products used to keep the soil ph in balance is Sulfur and LIQUID LIME.

Now when the soil ph gets out of whack, a lot of bad things can happen. Weeds, fungus and poor crop growth are common signs of a bad PH. Another symptom is a lot of moss, algae and mold growth which arachnids like clover mites, chiggers and spider mites like to feed on or live in. And when soil amendments are used in these areas where mites are present, many times the mites will seemingly disappear as the moss, algae and mold growth is reduced. No doubt this relation was noticed over time. In other words,  following the use of either Sulfur or Lime, some "bad things" would seemingly disappear like insect pests, fungus and weeds. It was then the notion was born;  the use of either Sulfur or Lime would help control related pest and mold problems.

Then someone thought why not combine the two? And in fact the reaction of these two actives when used in both sprays and dips proved to work well at controlling a wide range of mites so a whole family of products were then born. And today these products are still employed and commonly recommended for mites including mange mites.

I believe it was this combination of events that somehow fertilized the notion that spreading out Sulfur or Lime would in turn control pests like mites out in the yard or pasture. No doubt over the years we've had people ask about using both for mites, snakes, fungus, weeds and a whole lot of other problems. But does either really work at controlling the problem? Probably not.

So in summary, should you treat your pasture for mange mites using something like Sulfur? No. True mange mites have a short life once off the host pest and large scale treatments in fields is usually not needed. But if your PH is out of whack (exceedingly high), then using some Sulfur would be fine and in the process if it helped control some nuisance pests then great. And if you have cattle or some other animal fighting mange mites, your vet would probably recommend the use of a lime sulfur dip to help control the problem and no doubt that would help big time. If after this you feel treating the pasture for mites is still warranted, go with the ECO CONCENTRATE. One gallon can treat up to 1.5 acres for mites and it's even labeled for use on cattle so it's a good versatile product that can be used around the farm for all kinds of pest problems.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Sulfur Granules: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/sulfur-90-granules

Soil PH Control:  http://www.soil-ph.com/soil-ph

Liquid Lime:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1737.html

ECO Concentrate:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate

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Which of your products can you use if you have an organic yard with organic vegetables.

Actually, any of the products on this site can be used in the yard and most can be used on vegetables. If you read through this site there are two things you'll note. First, everything listed is certified okay for "organic gardening" and will be displaying the logo's that enable you to know for sure they're certified. As our article explains, there are a lot of products that "claim" to be organic but in fact are not approved. Second, many of the products we have listed will be labeled for use in gardens and more specifically, for use right on organically grown fruits and vegetables.

Two of the more common products we sell for people who want to spray their fruit and vegetables would be the MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER and the 3 IN 1 SPRAY. Both are highly effective on a wide range of insects with the Multi Purpose being strong on tough pests like tomato worms, cucumber beetles and stinkbugs. The 3 In 1 is popular where people are fighting mites, some insects and fungus. It's unique formulation targets all three problems quite well and is kind of a "one spray for all" product.

But as you'll see, we also have DUSTS, AEROSOLS, REPELLENTS, HERBICIDES and other specialty items with the focus and commonality being that everything included is actually certified for "organic gardening". And please feel free to give us a call if you have any questions or concerns or simply need a little clarification on what something can or cannot do. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we're open Mon-Sat.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Multi Purpose Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

3 In 1 Spray:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/3-in-1-fim-32-oz

Dusts:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust

Aerosols:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols

Repellents:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents

Herbicides:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/herbicides

Just what is Organic: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/nontoxic-pest-control

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I have a small greenhouse and I'm growing orchids.  Some quite ordinary, others pretty special. I have been trying to control the spider mites via alcohol and pinching….I am not winning.

I wonder if the dust is the best way to go. I don't want to hurt any plants.

I look forward to hearing from you.  I live in Black Mountain, N C

When treating plants in a greenhouse, I prefer some of our organic products over the more traditional pesticides. They don't last long meaning they dissipate rapidly which will effectively reduce the risk of anything getting injured due to over exposure. We have several listed on our NON TOXIC PEST CONTROL site, and the two that work well for spider mites are HOUSEPLANT INSECT KILLER and MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER.

The "most gentle" product would be the House Plant Killer. It's in a ready to spray aerosol and will kill any on contact. But keep in mind it won't provide any long lasting residual so in the end you'll probably end up spraying quite a bit. This could become costly. However, it is quite convenient to use and it's very safe.

The Multi Purpose concentrate will be the stronger of the two. It's a concentrate that you'll mix with water and apply via a PUMP SPRAYER. It won't last long but if you apply it weekly for 2-3 weeks, you should knock out this sometimes stubborn pest.

Here are direct links to the products listed above:

Non Toxic Pest Control Site:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com

Houseplant Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/houseplant-insect-killer-10-oz

Multi Purpose Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

Pump Sprayer:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/pump-sprayers/one-gallon-eliminator

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I grow hydroponics in a closed grow room environment in Deary Idaho. Peppers, tomatoes, strawberries and some eggplant (when they want to grow.
This summer I found a beautiful yellow banana pepper at a garden sale. I was careless in the isolation station and after two weeks brought it into my grow room.
BAD me! I soon found aphids on my peppers and I'm going nuts trying to wash and spray each plant and bud. They grow faster than I can wash!
I have tons (well maybe a few bottles) of chemicals but I don't want to use them unless as a last resort.
Do you have a systemic preventive treatment for food vegetables?
Thanks.

Systemic are products which work their way inside plants and are distributed via sap and other plant components. Due to there invasive nature, it's not an exact science and where the active will end up is sometimes not in the best interest of anyone that might be consuming parts of the plant. In other words you can sometimes get too much product in certain areas of the plant and if this was to happen at the harvest end (fruit or vegetable being picked), there would be inherent risks for anyone consuming the crop. For this reason systemic options are not suggested for any kind of food crop and though some exist, they are both expensive and limited in distribution. For the average grower which is growing something they wish to consume, alternative options are more practical and cost effective.

As explained in our APHID CONTROL ARTICLE, once this pest finds their way onto you plants, it can be a true uphill battle to completely eradicate the infestation. The key is persistence. And though it will take a long time to deploy and break the cycle, the use of INSECTICIDAL SOAP daily to all the plants can do the job. This product has no residual and will only work when applied. If used daily, you can effectively break the cycle by killing those which have hatched. Doing this for two weeks straight will usually clean off all the plants of any living and developing aphids and this can be done by either spraying or wiping them down with a mixed solution. Insecticidal Soap is organic and breaks down within hours of being applied so fruits and vegetables being harvested won't pose a hazard to anyone that might consume them.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Aphid Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1230.html

Insecticidal Soap:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/insecticidal-soap

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