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Which of your products can you use if you have an organic yard with organic vegetables.

Actually, any of the products on this site can be used in the yard and most can be used on vegetables. If you read through this site there are two things you’ll note. First, everything listed is certified okay for “organic gardening” and will be displaying the logo’s that enable you to know for sure they’re certified. As our article explains, there are a lot of products that “claim” to be organic but in fact are not approved. Second, many of the products we have listed will be labeled for use in gardens and more specifically, for use right on organically grown fruits and vegetables.

Two of the more common products we sell for people who want to spray their fruit and vegetables would be the MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER and the 3 IN 1 SPRAY. Both are highly effective on a wide range of insects with the Multi Purpose being strong on tough pests like tomato worms, cucumber beetles and stinkbugs. The 3 In 1 is popular where people are fighting mites, some insects and fungus. It’s unique formulation targets all three problems quite well and is kind of a “one spray for all” product.

But as you’ll see, we also have DUSTS, AEROSOLS, REPELLENTS, HERBICIDES and other specialty items with the focus and commonality being that everything included is actually certified for “organic gardening”. And please feel free to give us a call if you have any questions or concerns or simply need a little clarification on what something can or cannot do. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open Mon-Sat.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Multi Purpose Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

3 In 1 Spray:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/3-in-1-fim-32-oz

Dusts:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust

Aerosols:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols

Repellents:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents

Herbicides:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/herbicides

Just what is Organic: http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/nontoxic-pest-control

Filed under what to spray by  #

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I have a small greenhouse and I’m growing orchids.  Some quite ordinary, others pretty special. I have been trying to control the spider mites via alcohol and pinching….I am not winning.

I wonder if the dust is the best way to go. I don’t want to hurt any plants.

I look forward to hearing from you.  I live in Black Mountain, N C

When treating plants in a greenhouse, I prefer some of our organic products over the more traditional pesticides. They don’t last long meaning they dissipate rapidly which will effectively reduce the risk of anything getting injured due to over exposure. We have several listed on our NON TOXIC PEST CONTROL site, and the two that work well for spider mites are HOUSEPLANT INSECT KILLER and MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER.

The “most gentle” product would be the House Plant Killer. It’s in a ready to spray aerosol and will kill any on contact. But keep in mind it won’t provide any long lasting residual so in the end you’ll probably end up spraying quite a bit. This could become costly. However, it is quite convenient to use and it’s very safe.

The Multi Purpose concentrate will be the stronger of the two. It’s a concentrate that you’ll mix with water and apply via a PUMP SPRAYER. It won’t last long but if you apply it weekly for 2-3 weeks, you should knock out this sometimes stubborn pest.

Here are direct links to the products listed above:

Non Toxic Pest Control Site:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com

Houseplant Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/houseplant-insect-killer-10-oz

Multi Purpose Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

Pump Sprayer:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/pump-sprayers/one-gallon-eliminator

Filed under how to treat by  #

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I grow hydroponics in a closed grow room environment in Deary Idaho. Peppers, tomatoes, strawberries and some eggplant (when they want to grow.
This summer I found a beautiful yellow banana pepper at a garden sale. I was careless in the isolation station and after two weeks brought it into my grow room.
BAD me! I soon found aphids on my peppers and I’m going nuts trying to wash and spray each plant and bud. They grow faster than I can wash!
I have tons (well maybe a few bottles) of chemicals but I don’t want to use them unless as a last resort.
Do you have a systemic preventive treatment for food vegetables?
Thanks.

Systemic are products which work their way inside plants and are distributed via sap and other plant components. Due to there invasive nature, it’s not an exact science and where the active will end up is sometimes not in the best interest of anyone that might be consuming parts of the plant. In other words you can sometimes get too much product in certain areas of the plant and if this was to happen at the harvest end (fruit or vegetable being picked), there would be inherent risks for anyone consuming the crop. For this reason systemic options are not suggested for any kind of food crop and though some exist, they are both expensive and limited in distribution. For the average grower which is growing something they wish to consume, alternative options are more practical and cost effective.

As explained in our APHID CONTROL ARTICLE, once this pest finds their way onto you plants, it can be a true uphill battle to completely eradicate the infestation. The key is persistence. And though it will take a long time to deploy and break the cycle, the use of INSECTICIDAL SOAP daily to all the plants can do the job. This product has no residual and will only work when applied. If used daily, you can effectively break the cycle by killing those which have hatched. Doing this for two weeks straight will usually clean off all the plants of any living and developing aphids and this can be done by either spraying or wiping them down with a mixed solution. Insecticidal Soap is organic and breaks down within hours of being applied so fruits and vegetables being harvested won’t pose a hazard to anyone that might consume them.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Aphid Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1230.html

Insecticidal Soap:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/insecticidal-soap

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I have  a lot of aphids on my eggplants and okra trees. Is there any good spray to kill them?
thank you very much
sam, las vegas nv

The best spray for aphids on fruit or vegetables is the MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER. It’s mixed with water and should be applied in the late evening, after 6:00 PM, so the plants won’t be under direct sunlight during the treatment. Use as needed; most applications will last a week or more after you get control of the problem.

Filed under organic spray by  #

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I have some miniature wasps that like to buzz around my porch near my ornamental Pear tree.
Hanging sticky ribbon traps a goodly number.
It’s about 1/4″ long, typical small waist, striped rear end and legs. do you have a non-toxic spray for them ? Think they live in the tree.

I have a couple of close-up photos.

Thanks, Phil

If you can, please forward the photo’s as we love seeing any pests in the field. Pictures are both educational and helpful when considering treatment options.

As for what to do; we have a couple of options you might consider. One of the most commonly used product for this kind of problem is the NBS INSECT REPELLENT. This product can be mixed with paint or stain and applied to homes for long term insect repellent action. It’s completely organic and doesn’t kill anything; it merely acts as a repellent where applied. It can also be applied by mixing it with water and then spraying it on the home or surrounding landscape. Trees and plants are commonly treated to repel all kinds of pests including wasps so I’m sure it will work for this treatment need. However, you might need to step up the treatment to something like the MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER if they really are living in the tree because I’m afraid the NBS won’t be strong enough alone.

As for the Multi Purpose Insect Killer; it too is organic but it’s a step up from the NBS. It will kill them where they’re nesting and soaking down the trunk and limbs of the tree should do the job.

Remember that neither product is permanent and you will need to treat a few times a year if you wish to keep them away during the warm season.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

NBS Insect Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

Multi Purpose Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

Filed under repellent by  #

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Our neighbor has about 10 honey bee boxes on the back part of his lot cornered up to our property. I have been stung for the third and better be the last time while just working in my own yard doing landscaping – which unfortunately is back near their nest. Is there a repellant that I can use like bug spray to keep them off me and my family? These things are everywhere – our chicken water, our pile of soil aid we are working with, our neighbors fish pond…..everywhere. I have spoken to the guy about them and he has mentioned he just added another box and that they had extracted the honey which is what made the bees feel threatened…..but he firmly believes they are no harm to anyone and has no plans to get rid of them.

Is there anything that we can use or do to keep these things away? Thanks.

Living close to bee hives doesn’t mean you’ll  have to endure getting stung every time you go outside so I’m sure we can help. In most cases where local hives target a yard to forage to there is something in the landscape which is attracting them. Do you have a flower bed or other plant which might be luring them onto your property? Identifying attractive nuisances can help you manage the problem directly so do some inspecting work to see if you see a pattern to their mobility.

Once you find a plant or area where they’re active, there are two products you can use which will repel them away and most likely reroute their behavior if you keep treatments fresh. The first is an insecticide known as CYPERMETHRIN. Labeled for use on plants, trees and around the home, it has a natural repelling feature to many flying pests including wasps and bees. They’ll detect it’s presence and tend to stay away from where it’s been applied. Be aware that this product is a true insecticide so it will affect insects coming in contact with it. We sell a lot of it for controlling pests like ants, roaches and wasps and it’s commonly used for treating bee nests in the ground. So if you spray flowers you know bees are using it will kill any that continue to land on treated surfaces.

If you decide you don’t want a repellent that will kill all the insects, apply the NBS INSECT REPELLENT instead. It’s not an insecticide so it won’t kill anything. But it’s safe enough to use on any plant, tree or home and it’s naturally repellent to insects causing them to forage elsewhere. It’s generally used as a paint or stain additive providing a year or longer repellency where applied. But it can also be applied by spraying it on surfaces where you have unwanted insect activity such as foraging bees.

Here are direct links to the products listed above:

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2043.html

Insect Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

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We are buying a 10.69 acre farmstead about half of which will be organically farmed.  There is a huge mosquito problem.  There are a lot of trees especially surrounding the entire property but no water feature.  We will need to mow down the grass and tall weeds on the property, which will help.  We may also apply organic citric acid for the weeds.  I have also read that citric acid helps with mosquito larvae.  I am guessing the mosquitoes will still be a big problem, though.  We need a solution for the mosquitoes that is organic and nontoxic, effective, and also cost effective given the larger size of the property.  Please, let me know if your product would be an option for us.  If it is, could you recommend how to apply it and approximate cost for our needs.

Thanks.

We have several options that can be used for your problem. For starters, I suggest you read through our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE. Though this article talks mostly about traditional products, it does a good job of explaining the biology of mosquitoes which will enable you to reduce local populations through simple practices. The article also goes over all the equipment options available so you should be able to identify which fogger we present that you think you’ll want to use and this is a big part of the decision making process.

As for actives; the ECO IC or the ECO MISTING CONCENTRATE are essentially the same and both are very effective. But we also have products like the MOSQUITO KILLER SPRAY RTS and the MOSQUITO REPELLENT SPRAY which might be handy for some areas. For now, I think it would be best to learn about these various products, the different fogging equipment we offer and the biology of mosquitoes. Once you get a handle on this data, give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290 and ask for Chad or Mike. They’ll be able to further elaborate and offer specific answers for your situation so you can make some final decisions. I’m sure we have what you need and it’s really just a matter of figuring out how you want to apply the product that will dictate which to use.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Control Article:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

ECO IC:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate

ECO Misting Compound:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-misting-concentrate

Mosquito Killer RTS:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/mosquito-and-tick-killer-rts

Mosquito Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/mosquito-flea-gnat-tick-repellent

Filed under how to treat by  #

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I have stink bugs on my tomatoes. Is there any way to get rid of them without sacrificing the fruit?

Absolutely. There are two organic options we have which work. The first is INSECTICIDAL SOAP. Use it as often as is necessary. This could be daily but in most cases you’ll get control after a few treatments. In the end, treat as needed.

The second option is the MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER. It seems to last a lot longer compared to the Soap so in general you won’t have treat nearly as often. In most cases you can knock off the problem with 2-3 applications and then watch to make sure they don’t return.

Since stinkbugs will commonly invade the home, make sure you aren’t providing winter harborage for them. This will not only become a problem inside but tend to cause them to be active on your property next summer too. If your garden is close to the home or if you know they’re getting inside, you should do some treating following the guidelines listed in our STINKBUG CONTROL ARTICLE.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Insecticidal Soap:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/insecticidal-soap

Multi Purpose Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

Stinkbug Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/stinkbug.html

Filed under how to treat by  #

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Hello,

We are having trouble with cicada killers. I know they are harmless but they have taken over our vegetable garden. They burrow under the plants and kill them. I read on your site to use cypermethrin. I was wondering if that is safe to use in the garden. I enjoy watching them take down cicadas, drag them up a tree and then fly off to their holes with them… they are amazing creatures but I need to eat too.
Any info regarding freeing our garden of them would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
J.W.

The CYPERMETHRIN listed in our CICADA KILLER CONTROL would not be the best option for this application need. Though I don’t think the concentrate would be absorbed by the plant enough to pose a hazard, in general this active is not for use on plants that produce fruit or vegetables. Due to the close proximity of the treatment, I suggest opting for something else. Alternatively there are some organic or less toxic products we have which will work fine and still be safe to use around and even on the plants if needed.

The most direct approach would to wait till dark and then dust their open holes with CONCERN DE DUST. Apply it with a HAND DUSTER and you’ll get instant control of any wasps in the nest when you dust. In theory you should be able to treat all the nests you have heavily enough to shut them down within minutes of the treatment.

Alternatively you could opt to spray some MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER directly down their nests. If done in the evening when you know they’ll be back for the night, the treatment will kill them all on contact as it’s poured or sprayed down their nest. In general, if you’re thorough enough the first time you treat and carefully get each burrow, you can knock them all out with one application. But if you have 5 or more nests, it will probably take a couple of treatments since they can sometimes hide well or some peripheral nests can be missed.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page519.html

Cicada Killer Control Article:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/cicadakillers.html

Concern DE Dust:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/concern-diatomaceous-earth

Hand Duster:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/dusters/hand-dusters/crusader-hand-duster

Multi Purpose Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

Filed under garden safe spray by  #

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We are looking at Neem.  Once we mix up a gallon, how long will it remain good in the mixed solution?

This is a great question and one we get quite often. To best understand the answer it’s important to understand the difference between “ready to use” products versus concentrates like we sell.

For starters, ready-to-use sprays don’t need to be mixed; they usually come in a spray jug or bottle and can be used immediately as is. Concentrates will require mixing. In most cases water will be the “carrier” but many concentrates can be mixed with deodorized oil. Ready-to-use sprays are very dilute and to keep them in this form they require a lot of stabilizers. These additives insure the active ingredients don’t break down so that over time the spray will remain intact as long as the product is stored at room temperature and out of direct sunlight. Concentrates cannot be used this way. Once mixed, they’ll be vulnerable to rapid depreciation in their sprayable form. In other words, where sprayed they can last weeks or even months because this is how they were designed to be used. But these areas will quickly dry and assuming they’re protected, the active ingredient can persist. In general, it won’t do nearly as well if stored in water because the active isn’t meant to be kept this way. But this is by design and not a shortcoming. Let me further explain.

One of the big “drawbacks” of any ready-to-use spray is that it has all kinds of toxic additives. Referred to as “solvents, stabilizers or suspension agents”, in many cases these additives are more hazardous compared to the active ingredient! Additionally these very same additives can many times smell strong, burn plants or stain surfaces where sprayed and in general cause a lot more problems then they’re worth. On the other hand concentrates mixed with water will be as close to pure as possible and many times won’t have any odor or chance of staining. This would be one of their advantages. Additionally, it’s always nice knowing every time you need to spray you can have a “fresh” batch of product made for the job at hand. No doubt storing a ready-to-use spray over time will have a negative impact on just how much active ingredient is actually in the spray the next time you go to use it.

Another problem with the ready-to-spray formulations is that the stabilizers don’t actually do their job that well.. Many times they’ll actually break the active down when kept in storage and this can be to the point where the active is barely detectable or useful anymore. Unfortunately there is no practical way to guage or test how much active might be left in any spray so in the end, you can very well buy a product that is already in it’s “useless” range. To avoid this problem, the use of concentrates is the way to go and the only products we sell.

Of course, the big drawback of the concentrates we sell is that you need to mix them up. This does require a little effort and some precise measurement to make the finished spray just right, but fortunately the advent of small easy to pour “tip’n measure” containers are in use. They’ve made it easy to get exact measurements out of the container and into your spray tank. But another short coming is that the finished spray mixed won’t last long in the spray tank. In general, it might be good for 1-2 days but don’t store it any longer. Some concentrates might coagulate which can clog a sprayer. Others will simply loose their strength and won’t work when applied. But again, they don’t have all those “extra” ingredients the ready-to-use have so this is to be expected and not something we try to hide. In fact, it’s something we embrace. Here’s why.

If you have a vegetable garden you want to spray but are unsure of how much to mix, don’t make an entire gallon to start. Instead, mix up just 1/2 gallon. After treating the given area a time or two you should know exactly how much you’ll need and from then on, make only that exact amount. It might turn out to be just 1/2 or maybe 3/4’s of a gallon. Regardless, any of the sprayers and concentrates we carry including the NEEM can be mixed to a specific amount of finished product. And it’s quite common for people to only mix as little as a quart at a time for small applications so this is perfectly normal to do. In the end, using up what you mix the same day is the best way to go and definitely what we recommend.

Hopefully this answers your question and if you need some help determining how much concentrate you’ll need to add to get the finished amount needed for your target site, give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290 and one of our reps will be able to assist.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Neem Garden Spray Concentrate:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/garden-defense-neem-concentrate

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I have numerous cicadas in all trees. Is this the only known repellant available?

Please respond.

Thank you.

We have two insect repellents that work well on most any insects including cicada’s. These products won’t kill anything; they’re only meant to keep annoying and invasive pests away. Used mostly for mosquitoes, gnats, wasps and other pests that commonly invade homes, these same products can be used to chase away cicada’s.

The first one is the MOSQUITO REPELLENT. It comes in a ready-to-spray jug which means all you need to do is hook it up to your garden hose and you’re ready to use it. The power of the water pressure for your home is what will propel it out and most homes supply a strong enough water flow so the spray can reach quite high. Be sure to get some material on as much of the tree as possible. And focus your attention to the trees they seem to like. Repeat when they return; most people will have to treat 2-3 times per season depending on the cycle for any particular year. And most applications will last 1-3 weeks.

The second option is a concentrate. NBS  INSECT REPELLENT is mostly used for pests like wasps, carpenter bees and other invasive insects on the home. The most popular way to use it is to add some to your paint or stain when finishing the exterior of the home or any other structure you want to keep pest free. It can also be mixed with water and sprayed out over these same areas. It’s perfectly safe for plants and when used on trees and shrubs and bushes where cicada’s like to rest, it will effectively repel them for 2-4 weeks. Again, retreat as needed and mix it up at the rate of 3 oz per gallon. Most people will use it in a HOSE END SPRAYER so they’re able to reach quite high where cicada’s like to roost.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/mosquito-flea-gnat-tick-repellent

Insect Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

Hose End Sprayer:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/sprayers/hose-end-sprayers/gilmour-six-gallon-hose-end-385

Filed under nontoxic repellents by  #

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I have carpenter bees excavating a nest on top of a large stump in my property, right by the deck.  I want a non-toxic repellent for this, but don’t really want to harm the bees or my dog.  Do I purchase liquid NBS and pour it down the hole?

If you read the write up on the NBS INSECT REPELLENT, you’ll learn it won’t kill anything so it’s a good option for deterring this unwanted behavior. However, if the bees have already begun laying eggs, they might be reluctant to move away. Think of it this way.

If you were raising some kids and living in a home which was quite comfortable for you and your family, you wouldn’t simply move away if you came home one day and noticed something foul smelling on the siding of the house. And if your kids were inside the home, you’d no doubt make sure they were safe and do whatever you could to make the smell go away so you could continue living there. But you wouldn’t readily pick up and leave without trying to make it work first.

The same is true for any bees with an established nest. If you were to spray or pour the NBS down and on the wood where the drilling is happening, no doubt the bees will smell it. But if she’s got young or eggs inside the nest, she probably won’t just pack up and move. In fact she’ll most likely try to wait it out hoping the smell will wane enough to be tolerable. Now there is a chance she will give up easily if the nest is new and not important but it’s a 50-50 chance. NBS was really invented to stop new bee activity and not to drive away bees which were already established and nesting with young and it’s important to understand this trait of the product.

In summary, there is a good chance the treatment will chase away the bees doing the damage. But if the nest is established with young or eggs, you’ll have to treat it with the DRIONE DUST as explained in our CARPENTER BEE CONTROL ARTICLE to get rid of them once and for all.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

NBS Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page256.html

Carpenter Bee Article:  http://www.carpenterbees.com/carpenter-bee-control

Filed under carpenter bees by  #

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I have a bee hive in my back yard which contains Italian honeybees. Is there a mosquito eradication product that will not harm my bees? Perhaps a fogger product?

As explained in our MOSQUITO CONTROL ARTICLE, mosquitoes commonly rest on plants and other vegetation. Though they don’t commonly land on flowering plants, there is no practical way to treat everything but the parts of a plant where your honeybees will land (generally that would be the flower). And though removing your bee hives from the treatment area would work, I don’t expect this to be a practical solution either. Fogs, sprays and dusts will all leave a residual over the entire plant so in the end, I’m afraid the only truly safe method of keeping the mosquitoes in check will be to use repellents. Fortuanately we have 2-3 that work quite well.

One of the best is the MOSQUITO REPELLENT RTS. It’s a liquid concentrate that can be sprayed over your vegetation and basically anywhere you’re seeing mosquitoes. Organic and safe for the environment, the beauty of this material is that it won’t kill anything. Treatments can last a few weeks and it works on other pests like fleas, ticks and gnats keeping them all off the treated area.

Alternatively you may prefer to use a dry granular material like MOSQUITO SCAT. This product only needs to be sprinkled out over the turf and yard in areas you want to keep mosquito free. Treatments won’t last as long as the spray but again, it’s safe enough to be used without danger to other beneficial insects yet strong enough to keep away the undesirables.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Mosquito Control:  http://www.mosquitoes.net/mosquito-control

Mosquito Liquid Repellent:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/mosquito-flea-gnat-tick-repellent

Mosquito Granule Repellent:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page681.html

Filed under safe mosquito solution by  #

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Bugs are eating my veggies before I can get to them. Is there something I can safely spray them with, that isn’t toxic to us when we eat them? They are eating not only the leaves, but also the veggies themselves. Thank you so much.

There are several organic options that are made for garden plants. The two most common include the GARDEN DEFENSE WITH NEEM and the 3 IN ONE CONCENTRATE. Both of these have a short one day to harvest wait period which means you can spray either right up to the day before you intend on picking your fruit or vegetable since their residual is so safe and short lived.

As for the difference between the two; the Neem is highly active on most insects and tends to repel them for up to a week. It’s really just for insect control where as the 3 in 1 has both a Miticide and a Fungicide included so it covers more problems common to the garden. Use it if you find either to be an issue during the garden growing season.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Neem Concentrate:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/garden-defense-neem-concentrate

3 in 1 Concentrate:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/3-in-1-fim-32-oz

Filed under garden safe spray by  #

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I am in Houston TX and am having trouble with leaf footed bug on tomatos (in particular). I have tried catch and kill by hand and while have got many aver the past two weeks, I feel I am loosing the war. I am also trying to keep the garden organic and want a pesticide that can be applied near harvest time. I also am having trouble with local bee populations for pollination so I do not want to kill bees.

Ideas?

There are many types of beetles and bugs which can wreak havoc in the garden. Some of these are quite persistent. The leaf footed bug is both big and intimidating and there are many species active around the United States. In most cases you’ll only see one or two and they won’t amass in any significant numbers. But when they do, if they’re feeding on any one plant they can have an impact. The good news is you have plenty of options when it comes to controlling local populations.

Based on the fact you stated you’re trying to keep an organic garden, I’ll limit my suggesting to either the 3 IN 1 SPRAY or the MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER. Both are organic and can be used right up the last day of harvest so they are very safe. But we’ve found both to be quite active on tough hard shelled insects like the leaf footed bug. Treat every 2-4 weeks once the problem is resolved and you won’t see many if any come back. We have seen these two products have a repellency action so they will do a good job of warning bees so they’ll stay clear of treated plants too.

Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

3 In 1 Spray:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/3-in-1-fim-32-oz

Multipurpose Insect Killer:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

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