I’m looking for a non toxic roach killer. I’ve been seeing big and tiny roaches in my kitchen but refuse to bait because I have a pet doggie that eats everything. He even eats the dead roaches! Gross!! So I’m looking for a spray or dust of some kind I can put out that’s non toxic to me or my family.

We have a few products that can be used safely around pets and people that work well on roaches. The first is DE DUST. You’ll need a HAND DUSTER to apply it and using this tool you’ll want to blow the dust under cabinets, into wall voids and other spaces where roaches are known to hide. Any dust that falls out in the open can be wiped up with a wet rag or paper towel and it will be gone or neutralized.

For spray, go with the BED BUG RID which is labeled for roaches too. This is a true spray and it’s exempt from federal registration because it is so safe to use. More importantly, it actually kills roaches dead so for the baseboards and other open areas where you’re seeing roaches and can’t use the dust, spray the Bed Bug Rid.

Lastly, set out ROACH TRAPS along walls and inside the cabinets or pantry where you see them. The roach traps are safe around people and pets too and contain no poison. They use a special roach pheromone that will attract roaches inside where they get stuck to the glue.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

DE Dust: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/concern-diatomaceous-earth

Hand Duster: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/equipment/hand-duster

Bed Bug Rid: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/exempt-products/bed-bug-exempt-insect-killer

Roach Traps: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/roach-trap

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I’m looking for a non toxic snake spray I can use inside my house. My house is built over a dirt crawl space and the snakes love it. They come inside during the winter to hibernate and in the summer to avoid the heat. I tried using snake away but it smells so bad my whole house started stinking. I found out it uses toxic moth balls and I don’t want to breath the stuff all the time but I need something to keep them out. Any kind of organic spray available?

The best snake repellent for use inside is the PEST RID GRANULES and PEST RID SPRAY. Apply the granules throughout the space focusing on the foundation walls and any supporting pillars. Snakes will naturally stay close to this part of the space. If the foundation wall is made with cement blocks, try to get some granules into this space too since snakes love living in hollow chambers of hollow block.

Next, spray over the top with the Pest Rid Spray. Be sure to spray the foundation walls too, and up to the where the floor joists and sill plate rest on it. Snakes will commonly forage in these areas and if you only treat the ground, they’ll simply move up above your application.

Lastly, apply a band of SNAKE OUT around the entire outside perimeter of the home. Unlike the snake away, Snake Out  and Pest Rid are made with natural ingredients and exempt from federal registration because they’re so safe to use around the home. This means you won’t be exposed to anything nearly as strong as the actives found in snake away.

As for the length of control; the inside treatments with Pest Rid will last 30-60 days. The outside treatments with Snake Out will last about 2-4 weeks.

Here are direct links to products listed above:

Pest Rid Granules: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/pest-rid-repellent-granules

Pest Rid Spray: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/pest-rid-exempt-insect-animal-repellent

Snake Out Granules:  https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/snake-out-exempt-repellent

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Dear Jonathan,

Your information about CONFUSED FLOUR BEETLES is helpful. My concern is that applying the insecticide around food would be harmful. After cleaning the cabinet and discarding the contaminated food, would the pheromone beetle traps alone be effective? I don’t like the idea of spraying toxic stuff around where I store food.

Please advise. Thank you very much!

If you have been able to identify all the confused flour beetle infested food and discarded it along with thoroughly cleaning out the cabinet, you could opt to just set out some FLOUR BEETLE TRAPS. This alone won’t solve the problem should it turn out they are nesting in some hidden void. So if the trap starts capturing more then 2-3 beetles, you will probably need to treat.

A relatively safe product to consider is the TOPIA AEROSOL. It’s federally exempt from needing a registration number because it uses actives that are safe for use around people and pets. If beetles start appearing in the cabinet or traps, it means they must be in some food item you missed or maybe a hidden wall void or cabinet space. It’s here you would want to apply the Topia and if done correctly, there should be no exposure to anything being stored in the cabinet anyway.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flour Beetle Traps: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/pantry-patrol-beetle-weevil-trap

Topia: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/topia-exempt-aerosol

Confused Flour Beetles: http://www.bugspray.com/article/confusedflour.html

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There is a skunk that’s been digging in my vegetable garden. Right now it’s winter but I still need an organic repellent that won’t be dangerous to the plants and vegetables that will soon be growing. I’m not sure what he’s digging for but he’s pulling up the top layer of soil every night. Suggestions?

It’s very likely there is some kind of food in the ground and most every time the food turns out to be grubs. This is especially true in the winter. So for starters, I suggest you do a grub treatment with our organic GRUB KILLER. Treat at least twice as much as where he’s digging. And if he starts in elsewhere, treat again.

Next, set out some PEST RID GRANULES. These are made from all natural ingredients and won’t pose a hazard to the soil or any of your plants. Next spray over the top with PEST RID SPRAY. The combination of both granules and spray will keep any skunk away.

Grub Killer: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/grub-killer-rts

Pest Rid:https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/pest-rid-exempt-insect-animal-repellent

Pest Rid Granules: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/pest-rid-repellent-granules

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How does the aphid alarm work? Does it give off a chemical? I’m looking for something non toxic to control aphids.

APHID ALARM is basically the manmade version of what aphids naturally release when they are “afraid”. When aphids get scared and “alarm”, they send out a scent to the aphids of their colony to stay away. By mimicking this scent and then placing it out on the plant you’d like to protect, aphids will know to “stay away” instinctively.

We also recommend you treat any plants you’d like to protect with some PEST RID. It’s a very effective repellent made with all natural ingredients and completely organic. Treatments will last 3-4 weeks and will keep all undesirable pests like aphids, whiteflies and others off treated plants.

Aphid Alarm: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/aphid-alarm

Pest Rid: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/pest-rid-exempt-insect-animal-repellent

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I’m looking for something non toxic to use in my apartment for silverfish. They’re in my bathroom and living room. I mostly see them at night. I think they’re coming in from the storage space above me because I don’t see any in my apartment when I look. But every other night it’s like they come out and I’m afraid of getting infested.

Silverfish will live and breed in attics, wall voids and basically any wall space or void. They love insulation, the kind used in walls and attics, and once established in these areas will migrate inside to living spaces. Houses and apartments are some of their favorite places in which to live.

Non toxic silverfish control can be done using SILVERFISH TRAPS and MOTHERS EARTH DUST. Set the traps in any room where you see activity. Silverfish traps will help by capturing foraging silverfish and effectively prevent them from nesting. But when used alone, silverfish traps wont’ stop the invasion.

To stop silverfish invading, treat all routes of entry with Mothers Earth DE dust. Silverfish hate this stuff and will avoid it. Use a HAND DUSTER and “puff” some into cracks, crevices and wall spaces. Common routes of entry include light switch covers, electric outlets, light fixtures, air vents, water pipes, drain lines and basically anywhere a crack or crevice exists. A good dusting with Mothers Earth dust will make these areas unusable by silverfish so they’ll stay out of your living areas.

One last item worth mentioning is TOPIA AEROSOL. It’s organic and safe for use around pets and children too. Use it in all cracks and crevices instead of the dust if you prefer something easier to use. Keep in mind the Topia won’t last nearly as long as the dust. In fact the difference between the two products is big. Expect to get 1-2 weeks of control with the aerosol but with the dust, treatments can last 6-12 months so the difference is significant.

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we have nats all in our home and we have two kids and two cats. i need a treatment to be safe for them and i watch a two year old girl too. but i need to know how to get rid of them. we have tried sprays but it doesn’t seem to help. so if you can give me a idea i would love it.

When we move from the warm months to fall and winter, many pests will commonly start nesting inside the home. Nats are one of these pests. Common places they’ll nest will be in the litter box, the drain of any sink – especially sinks that have “sinkerators”, recycling bins, garbage pails, garbage disposals, drain pans under washing machines or refrigerators as well as plant pots (the pot holding the soil for any indoor plants). If you have any of the aforementioned, I suggest you start looking at these locations as possible nest sites.

Now what you can be used to treat these areas? In many cases, a simple flying insect killer can do the job. We have two that are easy to use and very effective. The first is a pyrethrin based spray called PT-565. A simply 1-2 second blast around any of the areas listed above will take care of nats instantly. This can be done as often as once an hour and can be applied with people in the home.

The organic equivalent would be the HOUSEPLANT INSECT KILLER. It can safely be used in the home around people and pets and will kill nats instantly too.

Both of these options can be used as frequently as you want but remember that neither will “solve” the problem. So if you find the nats keep coming back daily, you’ll need to locate just where it is they’re reproducing and nesting. Once you find that location, you can treat the area to stop the reproduction which ultimately will make it so you aren’t seeing them at all.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

PT-565:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-565-xlo

Houseplant Insect Killer:  https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/houseplant-insect-killer-10-oz

Nat Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1801.html


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I’m looking for an insecticide spray for these bugs.  I have pantry pest traps, but this time they don’t seem to be working.  Is there a spay that is safe to use in this area?

In fact all the products we have listed in our MOTH CONTROL article can be safely used in kitchen area as well as the pantry. There are safety video’s on each product page which covers all the details you need to know in order to both use and store the items safely and these directions are easy to follow.

From this site we have several alternative products that are organic which can be substituted for the traditional pesticides listed in our article. In place of the Baygon Aerosol, you could go with the KO EXEMPT AEROSOL. But you’ll still need to set out some MOTH TRAPS to make sure you get them all.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Moth Control:  http://www.indianmealmoths.com/meal-moth-control

KO Aerosol:  https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/eco-exempt-ko-contact-aerosol-14-oz

Moth Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/meal-moth-2-pk

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Just found your website & am interested in the NBS paint additive.  I can’t find a price list.  Also, the info says it should be reapplied every one to two years.  I don’t paint my house that often, can I reapply it over the paint?

On this site, the NBS product page has the pricing listed just below the “documentation” section. And here is a direct link to it in our shopping cart:

NBS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

As for it’s frequency of use; you may reapply it as a spray as often as you’d like. No doubt using it this way won’t yield the same results (it won’t last as long when used as a spray compared to a stain or paint additive) but it can be used this way for sure.

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how do I get rid of them so my very small dog can run in the yard? I have thousands of them on one acre of lawn. thank you

You have what’s called DIGGER BEES. There are thousands of species throughout the world and what’s most interesting about this bee is that they tend to nest in close proximity whether they’re a communal or solitary species. The net result is that you can have thousands of them in the yard and they can appear “suddenly” and almost overnight. This will usually happen in the spring.

Now if they’re a communal species, they will be closely linked to a central nest. This will be in an area the size of a kitchen table. But if they’re solitary, they will be dispersed over a large area, maybe most if not all of the yard, with hundreds if not thousands of individual nests.

Based on your message, there would have to have been some nests in the yard last year which were obviously successful. What we find commonly happens is that nests will start small and innocently one year and then explode the next year. Since some of these species can lay thousands of eggs, just a few in the yard one season can easily become a few thousand a year later.

To control the problem you’ll need to apply the granules and liquid spray listed in our Digger Bee article. These products are quite strong and will provide quick results. The organic option would be to substitute the products listed in our article with ECO GRANULES and BUG PATROL (these are listed on this site). Keep in mind the products listed in our article are more “traditional” pesticides and will no doubt work faster. The ECO Granules and Bug Patrol will be shorter lived; expect to get about a month from the ECO Granules and just 1 week with the Bug Patrol.

It’s also important to understand the “surge” in population you’re seeing is because you have a lot of pupae hatching. This is the third stage of the bee and when lying in the ground, these cannot be killed by the treatment. Since they don’t all hatch at the same time, it will take several treatments to eradicate them because every time there are new ones hatching after you spray, you’ll start seeing new ones in the yard. This is perfectly normal. So don’t feel the spray isn’t working when you first start using it. We’ve found it can take 4-8 weeks for the pupae to all hatch out so be diligent and stay the course if you want to get rid of them once and for all.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Digger Bee Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/diggerwasps.html

ECO Granules:  https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/eco-exempt-granules

Bug Patrol:  https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/bug-patrol-rts

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Hi!  We have a big box elder bug problem!  I’m pretty sure they are in our walls as well as outside. We see them all year round in the house and on the south and west sides of our home in warmer months.  It feels like they’ve taken over our home!

I would like to get rid of them without harse chemicals.  So I’ve been researching for non-toxic products to help us.  If there is such a product, we need to find something that we can use inside and be able to spray under the siding.  When we tap the siding, the box elder bugs come out like a swarm of bees.  It’s discusting!

Any product recommendations you can give us is greatly appreciated.  As I’ve said, we want nontoxic products that are as effective as other products.

Thank you!

All the products featured on this site are what we consider to be “low impact” or “organic” so you’ve come to the right place. We have many alternative options to the items listed in our article and these are what we consider to be the “best of the best”. Use any of the following and you’ll get almost as good results compared to the more traditional items we suggest.

Since it sounds like these guys are up under the siding, a good dusting is in order. In our BOXELDER BUG CONTROL article, we list DRIONE DUST. On this site, either ECO DUST or MOTHERS EARTH DE would be good alternatives.

The aerosol we list in our article is PHANTOM. The alternative listed here is ECO KO AEROSOL.

Lastly, if you want to spray the outside of the structure to repel them every fall when they come to hibernate, use the NBS INSECT REPELLENT instead of the CYPERMETHRIN listed in our article.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Boxelder Bug Control:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/boxelder.html

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

ECO Dust:  https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/eco-exempt-dust

Mothers Earth Dust:  https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/mothers-earth-diatomaceous-dust

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

ECO KO:  https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/eco-exempt-ko-contact-aerosol-14-oz

NBS:  https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/repellents/nbs-repellent-insect-spray

Cypermethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

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The Multipurpose can be used with any of these SPRAYERS and will both kill and keep these beetles away for a week or longer. The Bug Patrol comes in a hose end sprayer so just hook it to your garden hose and spray away. It will work like the Multi Purpose in that it will both kill and repel for a week or longer. The NBS is just a repellent so it won’t kill anything. It can be sprayed with anything.

All these products are organic and safe to be used on the building.

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We have been told that we have weevils living in our walls. We have nine indoor cats and I would like a pet-safe way to get rid of the weevils. My wife had made arrangements to get rid of them from an exterminator, but they want to spray all the walls at the baseboard and I’m certain it’s going to ruin the paint. (We have our walls painted with flat paint and if it gets wet, it stains.) The weevils are NOT in our pantry. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

First, I can’t imagine any pest control service that would knowingly destroy the finish where they spray so I think you may have misunderstood what they intended on doing. The products we use in homes for pest control have changed quite a bit and currently there are some which go on “dry”. My favorite is PHANTOM. It’s odorless, slow acting and works great on spiders. My home has hardwood floors so anything wet is out of the question. I use the Phantom throughout and it works great. At no time can you tell anything has been applied because when used properly, you can’t see it. I also use it on my boat. The boat decking is quite shiny and again, if there was ever a chance of something being left behind following the treatment, my boat would be where it could be seen. If you’re wanting the best option for this problem that’s both low odor and safe for use around people and pets, I’d go with this option.

Second, since you feel these weevils are in the wall, I’d apply some there too. Phantom is slow acting and won’t kill anything for a few days following the initial application but this is by design. Alternatively you can go with the MOTHERS EARTH DUST in the wall void which would no doubt take them out too. The key with dusting will be making sure you get good coverage in the space. Use a HAND DUSTER to get it applied and if done right, one dose will last 6-12 months.

Lastly, you could opt to apply some HOUSEPLANT INSECT KILLER. It’s organic and does not provide any residual. This means you’ll have to spray over and over as new weevils appear. But this would be the “safest” option because it’s not persistent or long lasting.

And don’t rule out installing some WEEVIL TRAPS. These can prove helpful and are very safe since they’re not a spray. Traps won’t solve infestations but can help to monitor and reduce the amount active in the living area.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Phantom:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Mothers Earth Dust:  https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/dust/mothers-earth-diatomaceous-dust

House Plant Insect Killer:  https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/aerosols/houseplant-insect-killer-10-oz

Hand Duster:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader

Weevil Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/3pk-cf-rf-k-rw-st-pp

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Dear Sirs:

My plantains (similar to bananas but generally used after they’re cooked) have borers called Black Weevils.  These borers make the bodies of the plant weak and decrease the sizes of the bunches by about one third.  Here they sell Feridine (sp?) to kill them and that is a deadly chemical. I don’t want to use this on my plantains but instead want one of your organic products.  What I need to know is do you have something that will kill this particular weevil?  I do not even know what it looks like, but when I harvest the fruit and cut the plant down (they only fruit one time) I see the dark brown holes in the bodies of the plants make by these bugs.

Please let me know if one of your products will kill them.  I must stay organic so your product qualifies in that respect.

Thank you, Nancy B.

Go with the MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER. It’s organic and we have had great success using it for all kinds of weevil pests here in the states. I’m not sure when your plants are being attacked so I would recommend using it at least every two weeks whether you have signs of the weevils or not. I say this because Multi Purpose won’t last more than a few days so it’s not nearly as long lasting as traditional products like Feridine.

Multi Purpose Insect Killer: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

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I was told by some family that sulfer spread over my pasture would help control mange mites. Is that true? Can y’all help me with this?

This is a bit of a “old wives tale” though there is some reason why the two have become linked. This might be a bit hard to follow but I’ll try to explain what I have observed which might lend some reason as to why this could have happened.

First, SULFUR is commonly used to reduce a high SOIL PH. Farmers have used it as a soil amendment throughout history and with good reason. When farming, certain crops can affect the soil ph making it move in one direction or the other. Two common products used to keep the soil ph in balance is Sulfur and LIQUID LIME.

Now when the soil ph gets out of whack, a lot of bad things can happen. Weeds, fungus and poor crop growth are common signs of a bad PH. Another symptom is a lot of moss, algae and mold growth which arachnids like clover mites, chiggers and spider mites like to feed on or live in. And when soil amendments are used in these areas where mites are present, many times the mites will seemingly disappear as the moss, algae and mold growth is reduced. No doubt this relation was noticed over time. In other words,  following the use of either Sulfur or Lime, some “bad things” would seemingly disappear like insect pests, fungus and weeds. It was then the notion was born;  the use of either Sulfur or Lime would help control related pest and mold problems.

Then someone thought why not combine the two? And in fact the reaction of these two actives when used in both sprays and dips proved to work well at controlling a wide range of mites so a whole family of products were then born. And today these products are still employed and commonly recommended for mites including mange mites.

I believe it was this combination of events that somehow fertilized the notion that spreading out Sulfur or Lime would in turn control pests like mites out in the yard or pasture. No doubt over the years we’ve had people ask about using both for mites, snakes, fungus, weeds and a whole lot of other problems. But does either really work at controlling the problem? Probably not.

So in summary, should you treat your pasture for mange mites using something like Sulfur? No. True mange mites have a short life once off the host pest and large scale treatments in fields is usually not needed. But if your PH is out of whack (exceedingly high), then using some Sulfur would be fine and in the process if it helped control some nuisance pests then great. And if you have cattle or some other animal fighting mange mites, your vet would probably recommend the use of a lime sulfur dip to help control the problem and no doubt that would help big time. If after this you feel treating the pasture for mites is still warranted, go with the ECO CONCENTRATE. One gallon can treat up to 1.5 acres for mites and it’s even labeled for use on cattle so it’s a good versatile product that can be used around the farm for all kinds of pest problems.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Sulfur Granules: https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/sulfur-90-granules

Soil PH Control:  http://www.soil-ph.com/soil-ph

Liquid Lime:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1737.html

ECO Concentrate:  https://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/concentrates/eco-exempt-ic-concentrate

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